Africa Travel Guide

AFRICA

2009-06-01T06:29:00.000-07:00

Overview

Welcome to Africa. Let this blog be your personal guide for exploring the beauty and interesting diversity these countries have to offer.
All the countries have joined together on Africa Travel Guide to provide you with a wonderful resource to obtain all the information you need to make your trip to Africa the trip of a lifetime.

Africa, the second largest continent, has 54 countries - the most on any continent, and a surface area of 30,244,050 sq km (11,677,293 sq mi). Its highest point is Tanzania's Mt. Kilimanjaro, the world's highest free-standing mountain, which rises to 5,895 m (19,340 feet) above sea level. Africa's lowest point is Djibouti's Lake Assal, whose surface is 157 m (515 feet) below sea level. Africa has extensive mineral resources, including gold, diamonds and copper. Its longest river, the Nile, is also the World's longest, and runs 6,650 km (4,132 miles) from Burundi to Egypt. Its largest lake is the 69,485 sq km (26,828 square mile) Lake Victoria, which is surrounded by Uganda, Tanzania, and Kenya. Africa is bounded by the Mediterranean Sea to the north, by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, by the Red Sea to the northeast, and by the Indian Ocean to the southeast.

Regions

North Africa (Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco, Tunisia, Western Sahara)
The countries that rim the southern shores of the Mediterranean Sea.

Saharan Africa (Chad, Mali, Mauritania, Niger, Sudan)
The mostly desert and often landlocked nations that span the Sahara Desert.

West Africa (Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Cote d'Ivoire, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo)
The tropical Atlantic coastal nations.

Central Africa (Angola, Burundi, Central African Republic, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Rwanda, Sao Tome and Principe, Zambia)
The heart of Africa.

East Africa (Comoros, Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Kenya, Madagascar, Malawi, Mauritius, Mozambique, Seychelles, Somalia, Tanzania, Uganda)
The nations that border the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean.

Southern Africa (Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe)
Nations at Africa's southern tip.

Other territories

Get in

By plane

Air fares to Africa can be very expensive, but there are ways to save. Don't, for example, fly from London to a former French colony, or conversely from Paris to a former British colony. That could easily cost thousands more. Instead, get a cheap ticket from London to Paris (or vice versa) and fly to Africa from there. Always book the Africa portion of travel first, be sure to allow lots of connection time, and note that London and Paris both have multiple international airports.

From the USA, there are a few non-stop flights to Africa from JFK New York City, Dulles near Washington, D.C. and Atlanta. Outside the peak travel times to Europe (e.g. summer) you might be able to get a good deal to London or Paris and book a fare from there to Africa on a European travel website. But don't book the USA to Europe portion until you get confirmed on the Europe to Africa portion first. Through fares to Africa from the USA can be quite expensive, so avoiding peak travel times to Europe can sometimes save a lot. However, since new non-stop flights to Africa have recently been added, and Europe is much more expensive than it used to be, try getting a direct quote first, then see if you can do better.

Airline consolidators can also be used for discounted air fares. If you have additional travel time, check to see how your total fare quote to Africa compares with a round-the-world fare. Don't forget to add in the extra costs of additional visas, departure taxes, ground transportation, etc. for all those places outside of Africa.

See the individual articles (links above) for more country-specific information. Bear in mind that many African countries only offer a few international flights each day, or in some cases, each week. While it isn't hard to reach South Africa or Egypt, getting to Malawi or Togo can be quite a challenge.

Get around

By plane

There are a number of reliable airlines that ply the African Continent. Chief among them are certainly:

South African Airways (SAA) (Johannesburg, South Africa), [1], is by far Africa's premier airline and has daily flights to most major African political and economic hubs. If you're flying from the Northern Hemisphere to somewhere north of South Africa, don't forget to check how much backtracking you'll have to do, and if it's worth it. The flight from New York does stop in Senegal, but if you get off there, SAA has no connections to anywhere else.
Ethiopian Airlines (Addis Ababa, Ethiopia), [2] offers a direct service from many European cities & Washington Dulles Airport in USA to its hub Addis Ababa. From there it has a very good coverage to many cities in Africa. Its mileage can be used on Lufthansa services & Lufthansa miles can also be used on Ethiopian.
Kenya Airways (Nairobi, Kenya), [3], partly owned by Royal Dutch KLM, offers good service and frequent flights to all East African countries and many other major African destinations.
Air France has flights to most West African capitals.
Many other African carriers offer flights to more remote locations.
Airlines in your home country may offer some flights to Africa with less backtracking. For example, there are flights to Ghana on Delta from New York, and several European airlines fly there also.

Note: Choose wisely when flying in Africa. Although the airlines mentioned above all meet FAA safety standards, the same isn't true for all airlines, especially smaller domestic carriers in countries where political stability may be lacking, tenuous or only recently reintroduced. Click on this link [4] for the list of airlines that do not meet EU safety standards.

By car

If you want to drive your own car around Africa see also Carnet de Passage

For sightseeing trips, it may be less expensive to hire a taxi than to rent a car, but be sure to negotiate taxi fares beforehand. Travel on rural roads can be slow and difficult in the dry season and disrupted by floods in the rainy season. If you plan on traveling in rural areas of sub-Saharan Africa, avoid the rainy months of May through October above the equator and the rainy months of November through April below the equator. Some roads may be flooded or washed out during these months.

Travel by car outside large towns can be dangerous. Major roads are generally well maintained but there are few divided highways in Africa. In addition, rural auto accidents are fairly common because of high speed limits and the presence of wildlife in these areas. Night driving, especially in rural areas, is not recommended, and visitors are encouraged to hire reputable tour operators for safaris or other game viewing expeditions.

By thumb

Many locals hitchhike in countries throughout Africa, often paying a small fee to the driver. It is best to check the political and social climate of each region before traveling.

In the whole of Africa it is possible to flag down cars and pay them a required fee and get a lift in return. That is just the way public transport works in this part of the world - he who has a means of transportation, that is a car or minibus, is automatically expected to give lifts to others and of course charge them a small amount of money for the favor. The idea of it has nothing to do with the Western idea of hitchhiking.

If you are of European descent, it may sometimes work by waiting alongside a road where bush taxis also go that you can stop a NGO driver, tourists or someone rich in their Mercedes and thereby go quicker and free of charge, but there are so few of these around that this is not something you can usually bank on.

Overland trucks

Some people with limited amounts of time or who would prefer not to make their own arrangements opt for the "overlander" experience. Many operators run tours in large trucks that are comfortable and equipped with facilities for around 8-30 persons. They're generally run on a pretty tight schedule and cover a lot of distance, such as "Nairobi to Jo'burg in six weeks". These tours are run throughout the whole continent but East and Southern Africa are the most popular destinations. Accommodation is mostly camping. Most meals are arranged, and free time (like everything else) is scheduled. However, there is plenty of time to do the adventure activities certain areas of Africa are famous for. Victoria Falls, Swakopmund, Zanzibar, Serengeti National Park. Some people really enjoy these tours, especially when they do not have enough time to organize all travel arrangements themselves. Others loathe the very thought of traveling in a group and think that they keep you way out of touch with the "real" Africa and liken them to MTV's Road Rules. Whatever the case, they're a very different way to travel through Africa. Note that people that go on these tours tend to be young at heart and slightly adventurous, these tours are not luxury trips.

See

Many visitors are attracted by the African flora and fauna and several countries benefit from Safari tourism to African National Parks.

Amboseli National Park is located in Kenya and famous for the biggest tuskers in the world

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is located in South Africa and Botswana. Big game and many raptors

Masai Mara National Park is located in Kenya and is famous for the mass migration of wildebeest from the Serengeti

Tsavo East National Park is located in Kenya and is best known for its giraffe population

Serengeti National Park is located in Tanzania and has amazing opportunities for seeing lions

Etosha National Park is located in Namibia

Kruger National Park in South Africa is the biggest national park in Africa and has many different habitats

Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda home of the rare mountain gorilla - and the rich mosaic of mountain ecosystems

Stay safe

Africa can certainly be a dangerous continent. Check the "stay safe" areas of the individual countries you are going to.

Stay healthy

Sub-Saharan Africa has the highest rates of HIV and AIDS infection on Earth. A 2005 UN Report says over 25 million infected, over 7% of adults, for the continent as a whole. Be extremely cautious about any sexual activity in Africa. Especially note that the rates of HIV infection among sex workers is phenomenally high.

SOUTHERN AFRICA

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Overview

Southern Africa is a region that includes several non-tropical countries in Africa.

Countries

Botswana (Gaborone)
Famous for the rich wildlife of the Okavango Delta.

Lesotho (Maseru)
The Kingdom in the Sky

Namibia (Caprivi, Northern Namibia, Central Namibia, Southern Namibia)
Namibia produces some of the world's highest quality diamonds.

South Africa (Eastern Cape, Free State, Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo, Mpumalanga, North West, Northern Cape, Western Cape)
One of the richest countries in Africa has its share of wildlife and tourist-friendly sites.

Swaziland

Zimbabwe
Access to Victoria Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the world.

A number of other countries are sometimes considered part of Southern Africa due to their accessibility from the countries listed above, such as Mozambique, Angola, Zambia and some Islands of the Indian Ocean such as the Seychelles and Mauritius. In some instances all of the countries south of the equator are viewed as Southern Africa. For the purpose of this guide, these countries are described in other regions.

Cities

Cape Town — Administrative capital and vibrant port city in South Africa
Gaborone — The capital of Botswana
Harare — The capital of Zimbabwe
Johannesburg — Largest city in South Africa
Maseru — The capital of Lesotho
Maun — Good base for trips to Botswana's Okavango Delta
Mbabane — The capital of Swaziland
Pretoria — The capital of South Africa
Windhoek — The capital of Namibia

Other destinations

Chobe National Park in Botswana — Good wildlife viewing.
Etosha National Park in Namibia — Another park good for seeing wildlife.
Fish River Canyon Park in Namibia — The second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in the USA.
Kruger National Park in South Africa — One of the best managed wildlife parks in Africa.
Okavango Delta in Botswana — A unique geological formation where a delta is formed by the Okavango River flowing into the Kalahari desert instead of the ocean. Part of the Delta is designated as Moremi National Park.
Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe — A popular tourist destination located in the west the country.

Understand

Landscape

The Drakensberg (mountains of the dragon) range stretches some 1000km through Southern Africa, from the Eastern Cape through Lesotho (most of this country is located on a plateau of the mountain range) , central KwaZulu-Natal (where one can find the Tugela Falls, the second highest waterfall in the world), divides Mpumalanga in half creating the Escarpment and the Blyde River Canyon (the third largest canyon in the world) from where it reaches up into the southern parts of Limpopo.

Talk

English is an official language in all countries in the region, and most urban dwellers speak it fairly well. Afrikaans is widely spoken in South Africa and Namibia, and German is also spoken by some in Namibia. You may encounter Portuguese in the region as well.

Get in

By plane

South Africa's OR Tambo Internatonal Airport in Johannesburg and Cape Town International Airport are two of the easiest entry points into the region, with many direct international flight landing there from Amsterdam, Bangkok,Lisbon, London, Paris, Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, Athens, Dubai, Doha, New York, Atlanta, Washington, D.C., Buenos Aires, Mumbai, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Sydney, Perth and others.

Connections to the rest of the Southern African region is easily made from here with flights to Blantyre, Cairo, Gaborone, Dar es Salaam, Harare, Lilongwe, Livingstone, Luanda, Lusaka, Kinshasa, Maputo, Manzini, Maun, Mauritius, Nairobi, Victoria Falls, Windhoek and more.

You may also want to have a look at Discount airlines in Africa and Air travel in South Africa.

See

Itineraries

Trip starts in Zambia, near world-famous Victoria Falls and provides a glimpse into the best of Botswana with plenty of options for game drives before heading down through the wild Limpopo province of South Africa.

Livingstone, Botswana, Waterberg National Park, Johannesburg.

Do

Safari

One of the most popular holiday activities in Southern Africa is wildlife safaris in search of spotting the Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhino). There are game reserves within South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and Zimbabwe. They all have lodges ranging from basic camping to five-star luxury.

Beaches

South Africa has beautiful beaches stretching all the way from Cape Town around the coast up to Durban, which is a surfing mecca. Further north Mozambique - known for its excellent diving and warm, clear waters - takes over.

Adventure activities

Southern Africa is an adventure haven. The region has some of the highest bungee jumping spots in the world; fantastic hiking and biking trails, great rivers for white-water river rafting and canoeing and excellent surf for surfing and kite-boarding.

Wine

The area at the tip of Southern Africa around Cape Town is known as the Wine Route and produces award-winning wines. Most wine farms are open for public tastings. Some of the towns to visit on the Wine Route include Stellenbosch, Franschoek, Paarl and Robertson.

Stay healthy

Water

Depending on the country you are visiting, tap water might not always be safe to drink. Consult the page for the relevant country and check with locals when in doubt.

Sunburn

Many activities in Southern Africa will be outdoors outdoors, see the sunburn and sun protection travel topic for tips on how to protect yourself.

HIV and AIDS

Southern Africa has a very high HIV infection rate.

For your own safety, DO NOT HAVE UNPROTECTED SEX.

Malaria

There might be a risk of contracting Malaria in many areas in the region. See the Malaria and Mosquitoes travel topics for more information.

EAST AFRICA

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Overview

East Africa is a region in Africa.

Regions

Countries

Comoros

Djibouti

Eritrea
This relatively small nation has heavy Arab and African influences

Ethiopia
Africa's second largest population; a majority Christian country in a sea of Islam, home to castles, beautiful monasteries, and wonderful food

Kenya
Known for its world-class safaris and beautiful beaches

Madagascar
Expect the unexpected in the land of the lemurs

Malawi
The warm heart of Africa, around Lake Nyassa

Mozambique
Relax on the stunningly beautiful beaches and reefs or get into the backcountry and do some exploring

Seychelles

Somalia
Political instability and civil war guarantee you'll see few foreigners

Tanzania
Mt. Kilimanjaro, Serengeti National Park and the island of ZanzibarMount Rungwe, Mount Kyejo,Kaporogwe falls, Ngozi Crater Lake, Gods Bridge, Lake Masoko, Unique Tea & Factory Tour and Ruaha National Park Southern Highlands

Uganda
Kampala is one of Africa's most laid back cities, located on Lake Victoria, with safari opportunities to your heart's content, and the country is the best place in the world for treks into the Congolese jungle to visit the nearly extinct mountain gorillas, who live along the mountains and volcanoes

Islands

Europa Island

CENTRAL AFRICA

2009-06-01T06:00:00.000-07:00

Overview

Central Africa is a region of Africa.

Countries

Angola

Burundi

Central African Republic

Democratic Republic of the Congo
Huge, blessed with incredible natural wealth and beauty, culturally diverse, and extremely unstable and dangerous

Equatorial Guinea
Perhaps the continent's most corrupt country, where massive oil wealth is confiscated by a thuggish government, is not a terribly safe place to travel, but it has great beaches, laid-back beach bars, and locals speak Spanish

Gabon

Republic of the Congo

Rwanda
Don't let the recent past fool you, Rwanda is one of Africa's safest and most rewarding travel destinations, with fascinating and well exhibited memorials and museums dedicated to the genocide, the best Central African trekking and mountain gorilla visits (since it's so untouched by tourists), and all this brought to you by a rigorously development-oriented totalitarian state

Sao Tome and Principe

Zambia

WEST AFRICA

2009-06-01T05:53:00.000-07:00

Overview

West Africa is the western region of Africa. In the north the region is bounded by the Sahel, and in the south and west by the Atlantic Ocean. The most densely populated area of Africa with many places to see.

Countries

It is generally considered to consist of the following countries:

Benin

Gambia

Ghana

Guinea

Guinea-Bissau

Liberia

Nigeria

Senegal

Sierra Leone

Togo

Sometimes Mauritania, Mali, Niger, and Chad are also considered as West African states.

Cities

Understand

you have to understand that africa is not the richest place on earth.

Talk

Mostly due to the colonial past of the continent, common languages spoken in the region are French, English and Portuguese.

Get in

The african highways connect many cities in West Africa with Nigeria being the main hub.

BEWARE: Flying from other African cities can be dangerous as many airlines have a very poor safety record. Check this first before choosing to fly with an airline.

In order of size here are the main airline hubs.

Lagos Airport - Serveral flights per day to London. Less frequent flights also to other main cities in Europe
Dakar Airport - Many flights to to Millan, Madrid, Brussels and Paris
Accra Airport - Many flights to UK (Manchester, London, Glasgow) as well as Frankfurt.
Abidjan Airport - Flights to Paris, Brussels and Dubai

Get around

Generally it takes time - and a whole lot of patience - to move around in West Africa. The roads are not all in great conditions and many roads aren't paved. Always be sure to have an extra day or two in the end if you are going somewhere since planning is very hard when the transport is unreliable.

See

Go to Benin if you´re interested in voodoo because this is where it originates. There should be plenty of opportunities to go to voodoo festivals and fetish markets.

Mali has Dogon-country which is a world heritage site. Also go to Timbuktu/tombouctou - the city known from Donald Duck magazines - and Gao which contains yet another world heritage site.

If you're interested in meeting some of the world friendliest people go to Burkina Faso or Ghana.

Do

Ikando Volunteer Opportunities: http://www.ikando.org

Drink

Don't drink tap water unless you have a cholera vaccination which also protects you against tourist diarrehea.

Make sure your water bottles are sealed and not just refilled with tap water. It can be hard to see.

Stay safe

West africa is probably the one place on earth where you should protect yourself in every way from mosquitoes. Do not sleep without a net and do not go without malaria-medicine.

Also you need a yellow-fever vaccination to enter most (if not all) of these countries.

Remember to check all of your other vaccinations because many other might be necessary (meningitis, typhus, cholera, rabies).

SAHARAN AFRICA

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Overview

Saharan Africa is a region of Africa.

Countries

Chad

Mali

Mauritania

Niger

Sudan

Cities

There is a very low population in this area of Africa and cities and rare and far between but in order here are the main ones.

NORTH AFRICA

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Overview

North Africa is the Northern part of the African continent.

Countries

Algeria (Algiers)
The second-largest country in Africa.

Egypt (Cairo, Alexandria)
Home of the ancient Egyptian civilization, with its temples, hieroglyphs, mummies.

Libya (Tripoli)
Large open spaces with more than 90% of the country being desert or semidesert.

Morocco (Rabat)
Situated on both the North Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea.

Tunisia (Tunis)
Located in the very centre of Mediterranean Africa

Western Sahara
Governance is in dispute between Morocco and Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), but the majority of the region is occupied by Morocco.

Cities

Other destinations

Ceuta - Spanish enclave bordering Morocco
Melilla - Spanish enclave bordering Morocco

Get in

By boat

There are some ferries from Italy, notably Sicily and also the Canary Islands.

See Ferries in the Mediterranean?.

Stay safe

Aviod drinking untreated ground water.

WESTERN SAHARA

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Overview

Western Sahara is an area in Saharan Africa bordering the Atlantic Ocean, between Mauritania and Morocco. Its governance is disputed, but the majority of it is occupied by Morocco.

Regions

While there is a large coastline, much of it is rocky and not fit for beaches or travel. Large-scale fishing and ports are at Ad Dakhla. Much of the territory is arid desert. The area near the sand wall created by the Moroccan military (also known as "the berm") is surrounded by land mines and should be avoided. Administratively, the territory was divided by Spain into two regions: the northern strip, known as Saguia el-Hamra, and the southern two-thirds, named Río de Oro.

Cities

Under Moroccan administration

Under SADR administration

Other destinations

For those interested in sight-seeing, there are few opportunities for wildlife or natural formations other than the dunes. The area controlled by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR) - known as the Free Zone or Liberated Territories - is of interest to those interested in the political conflict.

Understand

Morocco occupied and virtually annexed the northern two-thirds of Western Sahara (formerly Spanish Sahara) in 1976, and much of the southern portion of the territory in 1979, following Mauritania's withdrawal. A guerrilla war with the liberation movement Polisario Front contesting Rabat's sovereignty ended in a 1991 cease-fire; a referendum on final status has been repeatedly postponed.

The people are of Arab and Berber ethnicity and speak the Hassaniya dialect of Arabic.

Western Sahara depends on pastoral nomadism, fishing, and phosphate mining as the principal sources of income for the population. The territory lacks sufficient rainfall for sustainable agricultural production, and most of the food for the urban population must be imported. Virtually all trade and other economic activities are controlled by the Moroccan government. Moroccan energy interests in 2001 signed contracts to explore for oil off the coast of Western Sahara, a move that has angered Polisario and international observers. Incomes and standards of living in Western Sahara are substantially below the Moroccan level.

Climate

Western Sahara is a hot, dry desert; consequently, rain is rare, but flash floods occur. Cold offshore air currents produce fog and heavy dew. Due to the inability of sand to absorb heat, harsh cold nights are common.

Landscapes

Mostly low, flat desert, with large areas of rocky or sandy surfaces rising to small mountains in south and northeast. Low-lying sand dunes cover the territory.

If you are travelling overland, you will find no border formalities between Morocco and Western Sahara. Your passport may be asked for at the many checkpoints on the road south, but will not be stamped and thus technically you are still in Morocco.

Get in

By plane

The only international airport is in El Auin, the capital. Flights come from the Canary Islands, Morocco, and Spain. Other airports are located in Dakhla and Smara.

By train

No passenger train service available in Western Sahara.

By car

To arrive by car, one must either pass through Moroccan-controlled checkpoints along the border or enter into the Free Zone through Mauritania. The latter has virtually no roads, so driving will be possible only with a sport-utility vehicle. Several checkpoints through Mauritania are closed and there is a huge swath of landmines along the berm. Driving with a few miles of it is extremely dangerous. The Sahrawis have been destroying landmines on their side of the berm[1], but the territory still has one of the highest concentrations of landmines in the world.

By bus

Buses are present only in large metropolitan districts, such as El Aauin and Smara. There are direct services from Casablanca and Marrakech to Dakhla (running through Agadir, Tan Tan and Laayoune), frequent services run from Laayoune to major transport hubs in southern Morocco.

By boat

The only boats that go to or from Western Sahara come from the Canaries, but no passenger services currently exist.

Talk

The Sahrawis of Western Sahara speak the Hassaniya dialect of Arabic. The literacy level is likely lower than that of Morocco, which is 50%, so expect to speak rather than write. Some old signs are still written in Spanish. The Sahrawi population living in the refugee camps located in Algeria are over 90% literate, and some of the older Sahrawi generation still speak Spanish. As a consequence of Moroccan occupation, French can be used with a small business class.

Buy

The Moroccan dirham is widely accepted, although the SADR has minted pesetas.

Costs

Prices are lower than in Morocco, in part due to Moroccan government's subsidization policy.

Eat

Certain foodstuffs (e.g. sugar) are subsidized by the Moroccan government to encourage Moroccan migration to the area.

Drink

Traditional Sahrawi hospitality includes the serving of tea to all guests in one's home.

Learn

There is no established education system in Western Sahara. Education is informally conducted at mosques.

Stay safe

Hot, dry, dust/sand-laden sirocco wind can occur during winter and spring; widespread harmattan haze exists 60% of time, often severely restricting visibility.

Respect

The culture is Islamic but not particularly strict; the form of Islam that developed among the nomad population is non-mosque-based. If you happen to be in the occupied region, political and social displays of Sahrawi nationalism are violently repressed by the Moroccan police and military.

Contact

Teleboutiques and internet cafe's are not hard to find in the cities, but connection speed may vary from place to place.

ZIMBABWE

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Overview

Zimbabwe boasts some amazing natural sites. The Victoria Falls are without a doubt one of the world’s grandest natural spectacles and every viewpoint reveals something new. Running from northeast to southwest down the centre of the country, and connecting its two largest cities, is the Highveld, a chain of low mountains and Zimbabwe’s most populous area.

Zimbabwe also offers some of the best wildlife parks in southern Africa. From the forested mountains of the Eastern highlands to the sun-washed grasslands of Hwange National Park, from the hot Mopani Forest to the shores of Lake Kariba, more than 11% of Zimbabwe’s land – 44,688 sq km (17,254 sq miles) – has been set aside as parks and wildlife estates. There are also several botanical gardens, sanctuaries and more than a dozen national safari areas for hunting (an activity that helps to finance the conservation programme and is strictly controlled).

Present-day Zimbabwe was the site of a large and complex African civilisation in the 13th and 14th centuries. It was populated by descendants of the Bantu tribes, who had migrated from the north around the 10th century. Evidence of their mainly pastoral lifestyle may still be seen in the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, near the present-day town of Masvingo.

The first contact with Europeans was with the Portuguese at the end of the 15th century. Relations between the two were fairly stable until the 1830s, when the region was thrown into upheaval by the northward migration of the Ndebele people from South Africa.

At this point, a new aggressive breed of colonists arrived in the form of British mining interests led by Cecil Rhodes' British South Africa Company (BSAC). The BSAC took control of the country - which they called ‘Southern Rhodesia' - until 1923, when it became, nominally, a British colony.

From 1953-63, Southern Rhodesia formed part of the Central African Federation with neighbouring Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) and Nyasaland (now Malawi). In 1965, to resist decolonisation, the settlers - with South African support - issued a Unilateral Declaration of Independence (UDI). This triggered a bitter civil war between the white minority government and fighters for African independence, ending only in 1980, with the granting of independence and the holding of a general election under British auspices, which was won decisively by Robert Mugabe's ZANU party.

Modern Zimbabwe is in a terrible state. The economy has all but collapsed. There is widespread famine, which has been cynically manipulated by the government so opposition strongholds suffer the most. The government lacks the resources or machinery to deal with the ravages of the HIV/AIDS pandemic, which affects an estimated one-quarter of the population. With all this and the forced and violent removal of white farmers in a brutal land redistribution programme, President Mugabe has earned himself widespread scorn from the international arena.

WARNING: The outbreak of cholera in late 2008 is still an issue, and scarce running water (even in some cities), and the closing of some major hospitals make it necessary to travel with caution to Zimbabwe. Despite the formation of a unity government in March 2009, there is still a chance of political unrest. The unresolved economic crisis bears the risk of civil disorder and the situation is still shaky, particularly in the urban areas.

Zimbabwe [1] is a country in Southern Africa . It is landlocked and is surrounded by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the southwest, Zambia to the northwest, and Mozambique to the east and north.

The Zambezi river forms the natural boundary with Zambia and when in full flood (February-April) the massive Victoria Falls on the river forms the world's largest curtain of falling water. The Victoria Falls are a major tourist attraction.

Once known as the Breadbasket of Africa, since 2000 Zimbabwe has undergone an economic collapse and the rule of law has gradually but largely broken down under the rule of President Robert Mugabe.

Regions

Cities

Other destinations

Victoria Falls is a popular tourist destination located in the western corner of the country. For specific information on getting in, sleeping, dining, activities, etc., see either Livingstone (located in Zambia) or Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe).

Great Zimbabwe - the archeological remains of a Southern African ancient city built of stone, located in present-day Zimbabwe which was once the centre of a vast empire known as the Munhumutapa Empire (also called Monomotapa Empire) covering the modern states of Zimbabwe (which took its name from this city) and Mozambique. The word 'Zimbabwe' means 'house of stone.'

The Eastern Highlands include some of Zimbabwe's most beautiful views. The lush, cloud-hung mountains form the border with Mozambique. The regional capital is Mutare, and Chimanimani is a village popular with tourists and walkers.

Kariba - Located on the northern border of Zimbabwe, formidable Lake Kariba is the result of a large damming project along the Zambezi River. Kariba is a popular tourist destination and affords visitors the opportunity to watch African wildlife in its almost natural environment. It is the biggest source of hydro-electric power for Zimbabwe.

Matobo (formerly Matopos) - Located south west of Bulawayo in Matabeleland, this area boasts exquisite rock formations, as if nature had been playing marbles. Rocks are found balancing in ways that defy logic, a situation created by the eroding winds blowing out the sand between. The rocks are home to the dassie, a small rodent-type animal known more formally as Rock Hyrax, the skins of which are used to make a blanket treasured amongst the local populace. Also present in great numbers are the brightly coloured lizards common to Zimbabwe. The area has two dams that become the scene of family picnics, and angling competitions on weekends. A game park is home to herds of sable antelope, an animal not seen further south.

Understand

History

Stone cities were built in many locations in present-day Zimbabwe. The most impressive structures and the best known of these, Great Zimbabwe, were built in the 15th century, but people had been living on the site from about 400 AD.

The population was overwhelmingly made up of Shona speakers until the 19th century when the Nguni tribe (in 1839-40) of the Ndebele settled in what is now Matabeleland, and then in 1890 the territory came under the control of the British South Africa Company under charter from the British Government.

The United Kingdom annexed Southern Rhodesia from the British South Africa Company in 1923, when the country got its own government and Prime Minister. A 1961 constitution was formulated that favoured whites in power. In 1965 the government unilaterally declared independence, but the UK did not recognize the act and demanded more complete voting rights for the black African majority. UN sanctions and a guerrilla struggle finally led to both free elections and independence (as Zimbabwe) in 1980.

Robert Mugabe was the first leader of Zimbabwe and still clings on to power 28 years later. He initially pursued a policy of reconciliation towards the white population, but severity towards regions which had supported a competing guerilla group (ZAPU). From 2000, Mugabe has instituted a policy of extensive land redistribution and of "national service" camps, which are suspected of political indoctrination. In recent years, the economy has been destroyed, inflation has shot up to millions of percentage points, informal homes and businesses have been destroyed, and there are severe shortages of food, fuel and medicine, together with the disappearance of the professional class and the emergence of mass unemployment. Life has grown miserable for Zimbabweans of all colours, and they have been leaving the country in large numbers. The prospects of change seem remote at present.

Climate

Tropical; moderated by altitude; rainy season (November to March). Although there are recurring droughts, floods and severe storms are rare.

Terrain

Mostly high plateau with higher central plateau (high veld); mountains in east. Lowveld in south eastern corner.

Elevation extremes : lowest point: junction of the Runde and Save rivers 162 m highest point: Inyangani 2,592 m

Get in

Citizens of most Western countries need to pay for visa to get into Zimbabwe. Many nationalities, such as the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and the USA can obtain a visa on arrival by paying the appropriate visa fees. Tourist arrivals could greatly increase if the new Zimbabwean government was to charge no visa fee in recognition for citizens of countries that have supported the country with food and emercency aid (900 million US Dollars) over the last few years. Visa-free entry is possible for nationals certain countries, including Malaysia, Zambia, Hong Kong and several others. Check this website[2] for the full scoop.

Vistors still pay fees for a visa, which are, depending on your nationality, between $30 and $180 US. As of early April 2009, the visa fees were $30 and $75 US for US and Canadian citizens respectively.

By plane

Harare International Airport has a number of international flights, mainly to other African countries. When coming from Europe you can fly directly with Air Zimbabwe from London. Air Zimbabwe also operates to Dubai, Beijing, Guangzhou and Singapore in Asia. However, a good option is to fly with South African Airways [3] via Johannesburg. SAA operates to quite a few European airports and has many flights to South Africa and other African destinations. When coming from South Africa you can also use the no-frills airline Kulula.com [4]. KLM offer flights from Amsterdam via Nairobi which continue on to Lusaka from Harare. [5]

British Airways have now stopped their non-stop flights between Harare and Heathrow.

Victoria Falls airport has daily services by South African Airways and British Airways from and to Johannesburg. Air Namibia has flight to Victoria Falls from Windhoek/Nambia.

By car

Zimbabwe is accessible by road from the countries that surround it.

The N1 highway from South Africa will take you from Cape Town via Bloemfontein and Johannesburg/Pretoria right to Harare. Note that this is a toll road, especially when coming closer to Zimbabwe. (You can reach the N1 from nearly anywhere in South Africa, as it goes straight through the country.) Gas stations are easy to spot in Zimbabwe due to the long lines waiting for gas, as fuel shortages are common. Most realiable gas that is available is the coupon system that is sold and particular gas stations. The N1 highway is only within South Africa and ends at Beitbridge Border post as you get into Zimbabwe. Entering South Africa at Beitbridge can require 3-4 hours standing in line. Expect to pay police a bribe in South Africa in order to get in expensive-looking camera gear.

By bus

Regular deluxe bus services operate from Johannesburg to Harare. A number of buses also travel from Johannesburg to Bulawayo.

By Train

The more adventourus tourists could travel by train from Bulawayo to the Victoria Falls (there is no reliable information on the schedule or operation of this train). The train also passes through Hwange National Park, one of the biggest national parks in Africa.

Get around

Between the cities buses are still running - but are bad even by African standards. The only exception is with buses from the RoadPort in Harare which run to Lusaka, Lilongwe (not Blantyre) and some other destinations.

Minibus taxis still run in the cities - and the Bulawayo - Vic Falls train is a good experience - although you will pass through the wreckage of the 2006 train crash that claimed quite a few lives. you can expect to pay around R50 per person to Vic Falls. Hitching is a better option and can try to negotiate fares with mobile phones and other useful items. Hitchhiking is probably the more comfortable and fastest way to go. Given the price of petrol nearly everyone traveling between cities picks up hitchhikers (for a fee) - as a tourist you'll get to the front of the queue every time.

Talk

The languages spoken are English (official), Shona, Sindebele/Ndebele, and numerous but minor tribal dialects.

Buy

Since 2005 or so, the Zimbabwean dollar (Z$) has suffered from completely ludicrous inflation, with face values in the hundreds of billions on notes and three revaluations — the latest round, in February 2009, chopped 12 zeroes of the currency, reducing 1 trillion "third" Z$ into 1 "fourth" Z$, worth US$0.05 when issued.

Fortunately, the gyrations of the Zim dollar no longer matter much, since in late January 2009 the government finally bowed to the inevitable and allowed the use of foreign currencies. Almost immediately, businesses stopped accepting Zimbabwe dollars. The US dollar is now the de facto currency in Zimbabwe, although the South African rand is also widely accepted.

The use of credit cards is still very limited, only a few service providers accept VISA or MasterCards cards in Zimbabwe.

As for costs, non-imported things are very cheap (especially labour intensive things), however for a tourist drinking coke and eating pizza prices are not that much lower than in South Africa. Petrol (gasoline) supplies are improving, so are food supplies in supermarkets.

Haggling for a better price is common, but keep in mind that most people are very poor so don't try to abuse their desperation.

Eat

For a sample of what Zimbabweans eat (in some form, nearly every day), ask for "sadza and stew." The stew part will be familiar, served over a large portion of sadza - a thick ground corn paste (vaguely like polenta and the consistency of thick mashed potatoes) that locals eat at virtually every meal. It's inexpensive, quite tasty and VERY filling.

If you want to really impress your African hosts, eat it how they do: take a golfball-sized portion of the sadza in one hand and kneed it into a ball, then use your thumb to push a small indentation into it and use that to scoop up a bit of stew before popping it into your mouth.Don't 'double dunk'.

For extra credit, clap your hands together twice gently when it (or anything else for that matter) is served to say "thank you." Trust me: they'll be very impressed!

Drink

A variety of domestic brews are made in Zimbabwe, mainly European-style lagers with a few milk stouts mixed in for good measure. If you're feeling very adventurous, you may want to try the unusual "beer" that most locals drink, a thick, milky beverage known as Chibuku - guaranteed to be unlike anything you've ever tasted outside of Africa. It is generally sold in a 2 litre plastic bottle called a 'skud' but is often decanted into a plastic bucket after a good shake. Beware, however: it's definitely an acquired taste!

Imported drinks and locally made franchises are available as well as local soft drinks. If you are offered Mazoe, this is the local orange squash (or other fruit flavour). Bottled water is also available. Tap water is of variable quality, depending on the area and source. In Bulawayo it is usually excellent. However this depends on whether there is water in the reservoirs, as there are sometimes water cuts in order to divert water to areas that are low.

Sleep

There are various hotels and motels in the town. If you are on a safari tour there are chalets and camping sites in most of the safaris areas. Several hotels have international partnerships, such a Meikles Hotel, Crown Monomotapa Hotel, Holiday Inn in Harare and Bulawayo.

You also have access to lodges in the towns.

Stay safe

The US, Japan and Germany have lifted their travel warnings to Zimbabwe in April 2009; an indication that the security risk for visitors is low.

Given the political and economic instability in the country, travellers to Zimbabwe should take care with their personal security and safety. The largest risk to foreigners is being caught up in political violence. Recently, security forces including the army and the police have been striking or resigning in large numbers, as have medical professionals. You might not be able to rely on their presence to ensure your personal safety... or to keep order in general.

Don't forget to tip; times are tough for locals, and they depend on your generosity. If you tip a street kid, you are highly likely to be given the correct directions to any place, have your rental car looked after, sometimes for protection or sometimes to jump queues!

Stay healthy

In the current economic situation many medicines are in short supply or cannot be sourced, so you are strongly advised to take all medications with you. Medical attention will be very hard to get: many hospitals even in cities are completely closed or unable to offer substantial care. Some medical personnel may perform procedures for payment, in somewhat dangerous and underequipped surrounds. Medical supplies are severely restricted. Your travel insurance is very likely to be invalid if you travel to Zimbabwe and medical evacuations impossible to arrange.

HIV/AIDS infection rate in Zimbabwe is the 4th highest in the world at around 20% or 1 in 5 infected. Obviously you should never have unprotected sex. If you form a serious relationship, consider both getting an HIV test before taking things further.

There is at present a cholera outbreak throughout the country, including in Harare.

Malaria is prevalent, so unless you are going to stay entirely within Harare or Bulawayo, anti-malarials are advised. Drugs reduce the severity of the disease but don't prevent infection, so also consider precautions such as:

sleeping under a mosquito net (lightweight travel nets are comparatively cool to use)
using mosquito repellent on the skin or burning mosquito coils
wearing long sleeved clothing and long trousers, particularly in the evening

Bilharzia is present in some lakes. Ask locally before swimming.

Snakes are common in the bush, and most bites are on the foot or lower leg. If walking, particularly in long grass, wear proper boots and either long, loose trousers or thick, concertinaed hiking socks. Shake out boots and shoes in the morning, in case you have a guest. These precautions also reduce the chance of scorpion sting. If you do get bitten or stung, stay calm. Try to identify the exact culprit, but get to medical assistance as rapidly as you can without undue exertion. Many bites and stings are non-fatal even if not treated, but it is safer to seek treatment, which is very effective these days.

Respect

Clapping twice is an accepted "thank you", especially when someone is handing you something (food, a purchase). If one hand is full you can clap the free hand on your chest. Unlike in Asia, taking items passed to you with both hands is considered impolite, as it is seen as being greedy.

When shaking hands or handing anything valuable to someone, it is polite to support the right forearm with the left hand (or vice versa), to signify the "weight" of the gift or honour. In practice this often means just touching the forearm, or even gesturing towards it.

When taking something from a local, it is strictly done with the right hand as it is seen as an insult if the left hand is used regardless of dexterousness. The same rule applies when passing something.

ZAMBIA

2009-05-28T06:56:00.001-07:00

Overview

Vast lakes, rich wetlands and breathtaking African sunsets contribute to Zambia's scenic splendour. A land blessed with 17 waterfalls including the spectacular Victoria Falls, the country attracts nature lovers and thrill seekers alike. The wild Zambezi River is perfect for adrenaline rush activities such as river rafting, canoeing safaris, river surfing and tiger fishing.

Zambia is the land of the legendary African walking safari. Big game, abundant birdlife and raw, pulsating wilderness are what visitors can expect to find. The Zambian government has long recognised the economic importance of its wildernesses and is acutely aware of environmental concerns: almost one-third of the country is given over to national parks and game reserves.

First colonised by the British South African Company in 1889, it was not until 1924, when the company ceded administrative control to the British Crown (whereupon it became the colony of Northern Rhodesia), that serious exploitation of the country's main natural resource, copper, began. Though this could have made Zambia one of the continent's richest countries, it is one of the world's poorest.

Zambia [1] is in Central Africa. Roughly the size of Texas or France, Zambia is a landlocked country, bordered by Tanzania to the northeast, Malawi to the east, Mozambique to the southeast, Zimbabwe and Botswana to the south, a narrow strip of Namibia known as the Caprivi Strip to the southwest, Angola to the west, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the northwest.

Regions

Cities and towns

Lusaka — the capital and largest city
Ndola, Kitwe, Chingola, Mufulira — large Copperbelt towns north of Lusaka
Kabwe — large town midway between Lusaka and Ndola
Livingstone — gateway to the Victoria Falls
Chipata — provincial town along the way to Malawi and South Luangwa
Lundazi — small town north of Chipata
Mongu — provincial centre of Western province Zambia
Kaoma — small town and proposed provincial capital of Kafue province, Zambia.
Mansa — provincial centre of Luapula province Zambia
Solwezi — fast growing provincial centre of Northwestern province Zambia
Mpika — fast growing town of Northwestern province Zambia

Other destinations

Victoria Falls — one of the world's largest waterfalls
Blue Lagoon National Park
Isangano National Park
Kafue National Park
Kasanka National Park
Lavushi Manda National Park
Liuwa Plains National Park
Lochinvar National Park
Lower Zambezi National Park
Luambe National Park
Mafinga Hills
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park
Nsumbu National Park
North Luangwa National Park
Nyika National Park
South Luangwa National Park — one of Africa's great safari destinations
Sioma Ngwezi National Park
West Lunga National Park

See also: African National Parks

Understand

Zambia offers travelers some of the world's best safari opportunities, a glimpse into "real Africa," and Victoria Falls, one of the World's Seven Natural Wonders and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

History

The territory of Northern Rhodesia was administered by the South Africa Company from 1891 until it was taken over by the UK in 1923. During the 1920s and 1930s, advances in mining spurred development and immigration. The name was changed to Zambia upon independence in 1964. In the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, declining copper prices, one party democracy and a prolonged drought hurt the economy. Elections in 1991 brought an end to one-party rule, but the subsequent vote in 1996 saw blatant harassment of opposition parties. The election in 2001 was marked by administrative problems with at least two parties filing legal petitions challenging the results. Opposition parties currently hold a majority of seats in the National Assembly.

Economy

Much of Zambia remains desperately poor, with GDP per capita on the order of US$600/year, and the bulk of Zambia's population lives on subsistence agriculture. The economy continues to revolve around copper, but after decades of mismanagement the industry is now doing better thanks to higher commodity prices and investments made after privatization. Another recent success story has been tourism, with the misfortunes of its neighbor Zimbabwe driving tourists to the northern side of the Victoria Falls and Zambia's safaris, but the fast growth has come from a low base.

People

As can be seen even from the bizarre squashed-peanut shape of the country, Zambia is one of the stranger legacies of colonialism, agglomerating a large number of different tribes (73, according to the official count) and languages (20, plus dialects). Fortunately, with a long history of coexistence, significant migration around the country and similar Bantu-family languages, they all seem to get along pretty well and Zambia has been spared the violent intertribal strife that has decimated countries like Rwanda.

The Bemba are the largest group in Zambia, but they still form only about 20% of the population. The Bemba came from the Congo in the 16th century, and while their homelands are in the north and center of the country, many have immigrated to Lusaka and the Copperbelt.

The Chewa, Ngoni and Nsenga tribes, all found in the east of the country, share the Nyanja language and form Zambia's second largest grouping with about 15%.

The Tonga, Ila and Lenje, known together as the Bantu Botatwe (Three Peoples), are a close runner-up with 15% of the population, concentrated in the west of the country in the Zambezi Valley and the plateaus to the north.

The Lozi in the far west (6%) are known for their craftwork, particularly basketry, and for a low-key (non-violent) secessionist movement calling for an independendent Barotseland.

Other tribes in Zambia's patchwork include the Lala and Bisa (5%), the Kaonde (3%), the Mambwe and Lungu (3%), the Lunda (3%), the Lamba (2.5%) and the Luvale (2%), and 57 more. Despair not: the differences are not crucial for travelers, and locals will be happy to explain their traditions when needed, notably at festivals.

White Africans of English or Afrikaner descent(1.2%) are also visible, particularly in the more upscale areas of the major cities.

Festivals

A highlight of any trip to Zambia is a visit to any of the many traditional festivals held throughout the country. Planning ahead can be tough though, as schedules are variable and not all are held yearly. Also, if you do manage to attend, bring along tolerance for heat, dust and crowds (increasingly drunk as the evening wears on) and patience for endless speeches by local functionaries like the Assistent Vice-Secretary for Fertilizer Co-operatives in Rutungu Sub-Province. On the plus side, any foreigners attending can usually sneak into the VIP stands, although you may get hassled for photo permits.

Kazanga, Kaoma [Central Western Zambia] (June - August). The Kazanga ceremony is considered Zambia's oldest traditional ceremony having been celebrated by the Nkoya people for over 500 years. The ceremony celebrates and maintains Nkoya traditions of music, dance and many other ancient practices.

Kuomboka, Lealui/Limulunga (Western Province, around Easter (March-April). The most famous of Zambia's festivals, this is the ceremonial migration of the Lozi king (litunga) from his dry season abode at Lealui to his wet season palace at Limulunga. Wearing an elaborate Victorian ambassador's costume, the litunga is taken by a flotilla of barges down the river, with musical accompaniment and, of course, much feasting at the destination.

Ncwala, near Chipata, 24 February. A Ngoni festival to celebrate the first fruit of the season, where the Ngoni chief ceremonially tastes the fruit of the land, then spears a bull and drinks its blood.

Kulamba, near Chipata, August. A Chewa thanksgiving festival known for its Nyau secret society dancers.

Likumbi Lya Mize (August)

This is a popular August festival(The Day of Mize). This ceremony takes place at Mize, the official palace of Senior Chief Ndungu, about seven kilometres west of Zambez Boma. People of the Luvale tribe gather to celebrate their cultural heritage , bringing displays of all types of handicrafts and spicing the event with traditional singing and dancing while the chief holds court. Mize is the official palace of Senior Chief Ndungu. The Makishi dancers recreate famous events from Luvale mythology, and local artists display their work.

Livingstone Cultural & Arts Festival This was first held in 1994, this festival bring the traditional rulers from all the provinces of Zambia and visitors are also allowed with the knowledge of their culture in their tribe. This festival capture musicians, artist, poets, and dramatist.

Shimunenga is a ceremony to show devotion to ancestors. The ceremony takes place on a full moon on weekends in September and October. The Ba-lla tribe celebrate this ceremony at Malla on the Kafue Flats.
Umutomboko ceremony of the Lunda people in Luapula Province is held at Mwansabombwe to depict the coming to Zambia by the Lunda and Luba people from Kola in now Congo DR.The ceremony is held in July and is graced by Mwata Kazembe who performs a dance to commemorate the occasion.

Climate

If you look at a map, Zambia appears to be squarely in the tropics, but thanks to its landlocked and elevated position it does have distinct seasons that run as follows:

Dry season — May to August. The coolest time of the year, with temperatures 24-28°C during the day, can drop as low as 7°C at night. Probably the best time of year to visit Zambia: come early in the dry season for birdwatching or to see Vic Falls at their biggest, or later when the bush has dried up for good game-spotting on safari.

Hot season — September to November. Temperatures rocket up to a scorching 38-42°C and clouds of swirling dust make driving on dirt roads an asthmatic's nightmare. If you can take the heat, though, it's a good time for safaris as wildlife clusters around the few remaining watering holes.

Wet season — December to April. Temperatures cool down to 32°C or so and, true to the name, there is a lot of rain — sometimes just an hour or two, sometimes for days on end. Unsealed roads become impassable muddy nightmares, and many safari lodges close.

All temperatures above are given for the lowland valleys that house most of Zambia's population and national parks. If you're heading up to the plateaus, temperatures will be around 5°C lower.

Get in

Visas

Zambian visa policy is best summarized as confusing: there is a bewildering thicket of rules on who needs visas, whether they can get them on arrival and how much they pay, and local border posts also apply their own interpretations. Due to recent political turbulence in Zimbabwe, Zambia has been cashing in on its unexpected boon in the tourism industry, with visa fees hiked and the previous visa waiver program canceled: you're now expected to pay in cash on arrival at the immigration kiosks.

The upside is that once they've figured out what category you're in, actually obtaining the visa is rarely a problem and a rule of thumb is that most Western visitors could get visas on arrival. Visa-free entry is possible for some nationalities including Ireland, Zimbabwe and South Africa. See the immigration department's web-site [2] for the full list of visa-exempt nationalities. Current visa prices are US$50 for a single-entry and US$80 for a multiple-entry visa for all nationalities and is valid for 3 months; US passport holders can only apply for a multiple-entry visa, but it is then valid for 3 years.

A day entry visa is available to all nationalities at US$10, valid 24 hours
Transit visas carry the same cost as a single entry visa, valid 7 days

Do check with the nearest Zambian embassy for the latest information; the Zambian Embassy to the US has some information on their homepage [3], and getting the visa before arrival will reduce the uncertainty factor.

By plane

Zambia's main international gateway is Lusaka, which has direct flights to London on British Airways and good regional connections. For access to the eastern parts of the country (eg. Chipata), it will be faster to fly into Lilongwe in neighboring Malawi, and cross the border (which is quite straightforward by African standards). Also, Livingstone, near spectacular Victoria Falls, and Mfuwe, near South Luangwa National Park, have small international airports serving regional destinations.

By train

TAZARA [4] trains run between Kapiri Mposhi, Zambia, and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. According to the schedule the trip takes 38 hours, but these trains break down regularly. If you are on a tight schedule, a train might not be your best option. On the other hand, a train ride between Dar es Salaam and Zambia is a beautiful way to see the countryside and is very economical (under $10).

Several important things to note about this trip, however:

Bring water.
Immigration officials stamp passports as soon as the train crosses the border — probably in the middle of the night. Naturally, this is also when thieves work. If you are riding in a first- or second-class cabin, be very careful when opening your door.
If you miss the immigration official, they will either: turn you around and send you back to the border; or, arrange for a stamp, pending payment of a "special tax."
Immediately upon crossing the border, the crew no longer accepts the currency of the country you just exited. In other words, if you are traveling from Lusaka to Dar es Salaam, the moment you cross the border, your Kwacha is no longer legal tender; you must use Shillings. It is, therefore, a good idea to exchange money before the journey — blackmarketeers along the railroad offer poor exchange rates.
Do not leave valuables near windows, especially at stops.
Normally train has restaurant car in middle of the train and in the end or train saloon car with a bar. However, some stage of the journey resaurant and bar may run out of stock.
reservations are not always honoured; someone may be sleeping on your bed already if you came onboard on middle of the journey.
First class cabins women and men can be staying in same compartment but in 2nd class they are female and male only.
Tazara (Tanzania Zambia railways) has been build by Chinese people in 1970'. Wagons are brought from China, therefore they are high standard, only taking care of the system is failing.
The last stop in Zambia is in middle of nowhere, small town Kapiri Mposhi. Plenty of minibuses are eager to carry you to Lusaka, 2-3 hours. First reasonably town to Lusaka direction from Kapiri is Kabwe (it is rated among 5 most poluted place on earth due to mining!)

Via Zimbabwe/Victoria Falls: trains in Zimbabwe run from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls. You can take a taxi or hike 13 km across the border at the Victoria Falls Bridge to Livingstone station in Zambia and catch a Zambia Railways train to Lusaka and the Copperbelt connecting with the Tazara railway in Kapiri Mposhi.

By car

Vehicles drive on the left side of the road in Zambia.

There are many ways to get into Zambia by car, but the most popular include:

through Livingstone (in the south) from Zimbabwe
via the Chirundu Bridge (in the south) from Zimbabwe
via the Kariba Dam (in the south) from Zimbabwe
through Chipata (in the east) from Malawi
through Chingola (in the Copperbelt) from the Democratic Republic of the Congo
via the Katima Mulilo Bridge from Namibia
via the Kazungula Ferry from Botswana
through Tunduma and Nakonde from Tanzania

Crossing international borders by car will incur a tax.

By bus

International bus routes exist. You can take a bus across the border into Malawi, Zimbabwe, or Tanzania. Immigration might be painstaking, considering the large number of people requiring simultaneous processing .

By boat

Zambia is landlocked but borders on Tanzania's Lake Tanganyika, and there are regular international ferry services across the lake a few times a week. The ship, M/S Liemba was built in Germany in 1914, cut in pieces, shiped to Tanzania, carried by train to Kigoma (Tanzania)and reassembled there again. It is a ship of Titanic era, sunk twice, charming ship with reasonable services. This trip should be taken if you are not short of time. Also, if you enter Zambia through Namibia's Caprivi Strip, you will have to cross the Zambezi River. You will have 2 options:

You may ride on a ferry (for a dollar); or,
You may hire a local boy with a dugout canoe to carry you across (for 50 cents).

Get around

Zambia is large and distances long, so budget plenty of time for getting around.

By plane

Domestic flights on Zambian Airways [5] — formerly Roan Air, and unrelated to now bankrupt state operator Zambia Airways — and tourist-geared Airwaves [6] connect Zambia's major cities and tourist destinations. While undoubtedly the fastest and most comfortable way of getting around, they are quite expensive with an hourlong flight (say, Lusaka-Mfuwe) typically costing around US$150 one-way. Also note that planes are small and schedules sparse, but if you can rustle up enough people you can also charter planes for not much more.

By minibus

Minibuses — meaning vans outfitted with seats — are popular, but they are often irregular, dangerous, and uncomfortable. To maximize profits, a "conductor" will squeeze as many paying customers — and their luggage, or katundu (ka-TOON-doo) — into the bus as possible; whether or not the customers are comfortable is irrelevant. In terms of meeting locals, however, this method is among the best, and it can provide a traveler with a truly "authentic" experience. Payment is made during the journey — banknotes are passed down the bus to the conductor at the front, and change comes back via the same route.

By bus

Larger, more sophisticated "luxury coaches" exist, too. These tend to be more reliable and safer; they depart on-time; they have dedicated space for guests and luggage; and tickets may be purchased in advance. Luxury coaches are much more comfortable and are virtually guaranteed to arrive, but they might seem "generic" to a seasoned traveler.

By car

Vehicles drive on the left side of the road in Zambia — at least most of the time.

Car rental agencies exist in Zambia, but the costs are potentially great. Not only are rental rates high ($100/day), but many of the roads in Zambia are in very poor condition. Potholes often take up the entire road, and during the rainy season, large sections of the roads wash away. As you move away from city centers, you will probably encounter dirt roads. Although they might look solid, the dirt is often loose, and the chances of an accident are huge. Although you are not likely to get lost driving in Zambia (there are only a few roads), you are likely to underestimate the destructive power of these roads and damage a rental vehicle, or worse, yourself! 4WD vehicles are recommended at any time and necessary on dirt roads in the rainy season, although some roads will become completely impassable then.

Remember: there are no Roadside Assistance Packages, and very few ambulances, tow-trucks, or emergency vehicles of any kind in Zambia. Given the circumstances, bush mechanics can do an amazingly good job of patching up your vehicle, but patching up humans isn't so easy!

By train

You can catch TAZARA line trains between New Kapiri Mposhi and Nakonde in the north-east (Tanzania border). The separate Zambia Railways line Livingstone and Kitwe via Lusaka and Kapiri Mposhi (2 km from the TAZARA station). They are relatively reliable and safe, but slow.

By thumb

Hitchhiking in Zambia is popular, although it can be extremely hit-or-miss as traffic density is low. Also note that, if picked up by a local, you will be expected to pay for the ride. Nevertheless, hitchhiking does not carry with it the same stigma in Zambia as it does in the States; you are unlikely to be harmed, and you might make a great connection.

In Zambia, travelers do not "thumb" a ride. The proper method for flagging transportation is:

Pile your luggage near the road.
Sit in the shade.
When you see/hear a vehicle, jump up.
Rush to your luggage.
From your shoulder, wave your entire arm up and down, palm open and facing the ground, as though you are fanning someone in front of you.
Hope the vehicle stops.

Talk

Thanks to its former colonial status, English is one of Zambia's eight official languages and the language most often spoken in schools, on the radio, in government offices, etc. However, there are over 70 different Bantu languages spoken throughout the country, the most important of which are Bemba, spoken in Lusaka, the Copperbelt and the north, and Nyanja (Chewa), spoken in the east as well as in Lusaka and Livingstone.

Many urban Zambians will speak at least passable English. As you move into the rural areas, though, expect communication to become more difficult. Nevertheless, do not be surprised to find a rural Zambian who speaks flawless English.

The most important thing to remember when speaking to Zambians is to greet them. When you first approach a Zambian, always begin by asking, "How are you?" ("Muli Bwanji?" is the most recognized form, or "Muli Shani?") even if you do not care. They will consider you very respectful.

Afrikaans usage is on a slow but steady rise, mainly because of immigration from South Africa and the ease of learning the language.

Buy

Originally, the Kwacha — meaning "sunrise," so-named to celebrate Zambia's independence — was tied to the US dollar, so conversion was simple. However, in the late-90's, the kwacha was floated and devalued rapidly. Since mid 2005 the Kwacha re-appreciated very strong, due to the international debt-relief and the boost of the copper prices, now the Kwacha is hovering around $1 = 5100ZMK, 1€ = 6600ZMK Dollars are still commonly used for larger purchases (although it's illegal) and will be accepted by anybody in a pinch.

NOTE: If you bring US$, in Zambia only the "big heads" (new notes) are accepted in banks and bureau's de change, small heads are not accepted (if you are lucky you can change them in Livingstone). 50 US$ and 100 US$ notes are the best to bring, for smaller nominations you will get a poorer rate at the bureau's (5-10% less). Changing EURO's is a difficult thing to do especially up country, bureau's are giving a very poor rate (25% less then the market rate!). International banks will accept, but with commission charge. Finance Bank, Arcades shopping Centre Lusaka, is known to accept Euro's at a good rate and without commission charge. Bureau's and Banks will only change a maximum of 1000 US$ (or equivalent) per person per day! Watch the rates as they can change overnight, fluctuations of 3-5% per day are common.

If you want to sound like a local, refer to 1000 kwacha as a pin, so for example 10,000K is "ten pin". In the '90's, the kwacha devalued so rapidly that the government didn't have time to produce new, larger bank notes. To pay for things, Zambians often had to bundle — or "pin" together — large numbers of small bills. Notes are now available in denominations of up to 50,000K, but hang on to small change if you can because there are occasional shortages.

ATMs may be found in major cities, but you should not depend on them to be functional. Most of the ATM's accept only VISA. Other international credit cards (like MASTERCARD and AMEX) are generally a problem. Some shops and restaurants might accept debit or credit cards, as do practically all high-end hotels and safari lodges, but surcharges of 5-10% are common.

Although using forms of payment other than cash is growing in popularity, you should not depend on credit to get around the country. Traveler's cheques are almost impossible to process in Zambia, most chance you will have in the Lusaka international banks (Stanbic, Standard Chartered), but even then you will get a very poor rate, a high commission charge and it will take you a couple of hours, if you are lucky. If you prefer to take the risk and use Traveller's cheques, the only ones who will be accepted (if you are lucky) are the ones from American Express (Thomas Cook's are currently not accepted!).

Most shopkeepers advertise fixed prices and are unwilling to negotiate, but this is not a given. On the other hand, most "freelance" salesmen — vendors selling curios; taxi drivers; etc. — who do not post their prices are usually willing to negotiate. As a (very) general rule of thumb, assume the first price they mention is at least double the amount they will accept. You should not be afraid to barter — after all, Zambians bargain among themselves — but try not to get carried away with saving a few pennies.

Tipping is not required — indeed, it was at one point illegal — but often expected. Porters expect US$0.50 or so per bag, and better restaurants typically add in a 10% service charge or expect an equivalent tip.

Finally, keep in mind the Zambian custom of mbasela (em-buh-SAY-la) — giving a freebie when more than one item is purchased. If you buy a few small items, do not be shy about asking for your mbasela.

Costs

Zambia is considerably expensive compared to its neighbors. A bare-bones budget traveler will be looking at a minimum of US$40/day just for a bed and three meals, and transport is (again, comparatively) expensive, in part due to the great distances involved. Foreign currencies just don't go as far as in other developing countries, and often prices in Zambia are the same as what one would be paying in America. At the other end of the spectrum, all-inclusive safari lodges or Lusaka/Livingstone's five-star hotels will take care of all your needs but charge US$200/day and up for the privilege. Finding a middle ground between these two extremes can be difficult but there are safari operators who will offer 'DIY' camping for around US$5 to $95 and above - it pays to look around (see below).

Zambian safaris are amongst the best available in Africa; they offer top quality viewing experiences with the continent's top guides. Zambia's national parks are not 'commercialised' as in other countries (e.g. Kenya and South Africa) and one will not see the ridiculous zebra striped game viewing buses, Land Cruisers etc.

Eat

Traditional Zambian food revolves around one staple, maize, served in one form, nsima (n'SHEE-ma). Nsima is basically a type of thick porridge, rolled into balls with your right hand and dipped into a variety of stews known as relishes (ndiwo, umunani). Those who can afford them eat relishes of beef, chicken or fish, but the many who can't make do with beans, tiny dried fish (kapenta), peanuts, pumpkin leaves (chibwabwa) and other vegetables such as okra (ndelele), cabbage and rape. At breakfast, nsima can be served watered down into a soup, maybe with a little sugar. Local restaurants will serve nsima and relish for less than 5000K ($1).

Western food has also made major inroads, particularly in major cities, and in Lusaka or Livingstone you can find almost any food you like. Fast food — including burgers, pizza, and fried chicken — is very popular in Zambia. Bakeries making cheap fresh bread are a common sight in towns, and rice from Chama provides an alternative staple if all the maize starts to get to you.

For sit-down meals, ethnic eateries (thanks to a significant ex-pat population) are popular. In Lusaka, especially noteworthy is the Sunday brunch at The Intercontinental; and if you like Indian food, be sure to hit The Dil. Of course, game parks often cater to wealthy — usually foreign — visitors; therefore, high-quality Western meals can be found easily. Along the major roadways, you will find "tuck shops" featuring packaged cookies or take-away meals — meat pies or sausage rolls, for instance — which may or may not satisfy you.

Finally, in terms of hygiene outside the major cities, you are unlikely to find a proper washroom with running water. You will probably be given a bowl of water, a piece of soap, and a (damp) towel. Therefore, some travelers bring small bottles of anti-bacterial hand soap with them.

Drink

Tap water in Zambia is generally not drinkable, at least unless boiled. Bottled water is widely available in cities, but not necessarily in rural areas.

Soft drinks

A traditional local drink worth trying is maheu, a somewhat gritty and vaguely yogurty but refreshing beverage made from maize meal. Factory-produced maheu is sweet, comes in plastic bottles and is available in a variety of flavors including banana, chocolate and orange, while homemade versions are usually unflavored and less sweet.

Coke products are accessible and cheap at less than a quarter a bottle, but beware of the deposit system: in rural areas, you may have to return an empty bottle before they'll sell you a new one!

Beer

Zambia's best-known brew is Mosi, a clear 4% lager available everywhere. Eagle has more taste and more kick at 5.5%, while Zambezi Lager is a microbrew worth sampling if you run into it. The South African brand Castle is also bottled locally, and all of the above run around $1 in a store or $1-2 in a bar.

If you are near the borders, you are likely to find Carlsberg (good, from Malawi), Simba (excellent, from the Democratic Republic of the Congo), Kilimanjaro (nice lager, from Tanzania), and Tusker (strong, from Kenya). Other imports can be found in larger markets but will also cost more.

Local alcohol

The locals' drink of choice is masese (muh-SE-say) or ucwala (uch-WALA), also known as Chibuku after the biggest brand, made from maize, millet, or cassava and resembling sour porridge in texture and taste. If you want to try this, it's best to look out for the factory-made kind in milk-carton-like containers.

In rural areas, there are opportunities to drink local "homebrews." A wide variety of homebrews exist in Zambia, from beers made from honey (in the Southern province of the country), to wine made from tea leaves (in the Eastern portion of the country).

Finally, there is kachasu (cuh-CHA-suh) a spirit distilled from anything Zambians can get their hands on — including battery acid and fertilizer. For obvious reasons, therefore, it is better to avoid this moonshine.

On a final note, most men at bars are relaxing, while many women at bars are working. Therefore, if you are a single woman in a Zambian bar, be aware that you might be approached and offered the opportunity to do something you did not intend to do.

Sleep

Accommodation in Zambia runs the gamut. In Zambia, you can sleep in an top-notch hotel for a few hundred dollars (such as The Intercontinental); you can stay in an independent hotel (like the The Ndeke), for about $50; or you can opt for a budget experience, and spend about: $8(camping) or $15(dorm bed) $30(double room) (at ChaChaCha Backpackers or Ku-omboka Backpackers) for a highly adequate space. These are only a few of the options. Of course, choosing accommodation off the beaten path might be more exciting but unsafe.

Outside the big cities or tourist areas, however, you might be hard-pressed to find quality accommodation. If your tastes run to the elegant — or even if you demand constant electricity — you might want to reconsider venturing too deep into the bush. However, if you seek an enjoyable, memorable, and authentic night at a local hotel, you might be pleasantly surprised (e.g., Lundazi's Castle Hotel is like no other in the world).

Learn

The University of Zambia is the official university. However, it is not affordable for most Zambians. There are also Technical Schools throughout Zambia, and Teacher's Training Colleges are found in each Provincial Capital, providing two year's coursework for about $300.

Northrise University is located in Ndola. As a private university, it focuses on business, information technology and theological study.

For tourists, the biggest educational experiences would likely be:

Visit a game park and learn as much as possible about the area's animals from the guides. Guides can be an incredible source of information. Remember to tip them.
Arrange for an overnight stay in a "Traditional African Village". Of course, because the locals have prepared for you, it is no longer 100% authentic, but you will get an idea of the hardships Zambians face.

Work

Unemployment in Zambia was 16% in 2005 according to the Zambian Central Statistical Office. The agriculture, forestry and fisheries industries employ over 70% of Zambian workers. The legal minimum wage for nonunionized workers equates to around $16.50 (83,200 kwacha) per month. Most minimum wage earners supplement this through subsistence farming. In practice, almost all unionized workers received salaries considerably higher than the nonunionized minimum wage.

As for tourists, temporary work is likely to be difficult to secure. Although there is a substantial expat community in Zambia, most of these individuals are contracted by international agencies; by and large, they did not come to Zambia and then find work. Persistence and connections might pay off, but outside of the few hostels or Western-oriented bars, a tourist should not expect to find ready employment.

Stay safe

Women should avoid going to bars alone. Furthermore, men should avoid purchasing drinks for Zambian women they meet casually in bars; this is an invitation to spend the night.

As the Kwacha has been declining, it often takes fistfulls of cash to purchase items. Be careful about flashing money.

While it's possible to get a good exchange rate from an individual money-changer on the street (although you really should use banks if you can), you should avoid changing money with groups of men. They are likely running a scam.

Generally, Zambians are friendly people. However — as with any location — be careful about walking at night, especially if you've been drinking. There are few streetlights, and many of the locals are very poor.

Carjacking is also a potential risk while driving after dark.

Many places of accommodation, such as Pioneer Camp outside Lusaka, now sport electric fences and gates for added security.

Stay healthy

Drinking tap water in the cities is potentially risky, unless either (a) you have a strong stomach, or (b) you are at a restaurant or hotel that caters to foreigners. If neither of these conditions apply to you, you should probably stick with the bottled stuff.

The HIV infection rate among adults was estimated to be 16.5% in 2003. Do not have unprotected sex.

Zambia is a highly malarial country. Especially at dusk, you should make every effort to cover exposed skin with clothing or insect repellent. In addition, using malarial prophylaxis in highly recommended.

In practice, yellow fever is not a problem in Zambia anymore, except perhaps in the extreme west along the Congolese borders. However, many countries will insist on a yellow fever vaccination certificate if they find out you've been to Zambia, so it's best to get a jab.

Respect

Zambians follow a strict patriarchal society — men are afforded more respect than women, and older men are respected more than younger men. You might find, however, that a white person is afforded the most respect of all. A holdover from colonial times, this might make a traveler uncomfortable, but this is largely a Zambian's way of being courteous. Accept their hospitality.

Zambians are a curious people. To a Western mindset, this might be interpreted as unnecessarily staring at you or talking about you in front of you. Be prepared to be greeted by kids yelling mazungu, mazungu! (litterally, white man) and answer lots of questions about yourself.

Zambians love to shake hands, and you should oblige them. However, Zambians often like to hold hands for the duration of a conversation. This should not be interpreted as anything sexual; they are merely trying to "connect" with you. If you feel uncomfortable, simply pull your hand away.

Women should not wear shorts or mini-skirts, especially as they travel away from Lusaka. (Thighs, to Zambian men, are huge turn-ons.) Low-cut tops, however, while discouraged, are not nearly as provocative.

Finally, when meeting a Zambian — even to ask a question — you should always say hello and ask how they are. Properly greeting a Zambian is very important. They are uncomfortable with the Western notion of simply "getting to the point."

Contact

By mail

The Zambian mail service is slow and a little flaky (especially outside Lusaka), but not completely hopeless. Using a private courier service is still recommended if sending something important.

By phone

The country code for Zambia is "260." The city code for Lusaka is "1." For the city code for other towns check the directory." However, phone service both within Zambia and into Zambia is very hit-or-miss. In large cities, you are more likely to get regular, dependable phone service, but it is by no means a guarantee. The farther you travel from Lusaka, the less likely you are to maintain a good connection. International calling rates can be as high as $3 per minute.

Cell phones have been booming in recent years, and Zambia has a highly competitive market with three main operators: Cell Z (095), MTN (096) and Celtel (097). Generally speaking, Celtel has the largest network, while Cell Z is the cheapest. You can pick up a local SIM card for as little as 5,000K ($1). Prepaid time is sold in "units" corresponding to dollars: figure on 0.4 units for an SMS or up to 1 unit/minute for calls, although as always the precise tariffs are bewilderingly complex. If you plan on roaming with your non-Zambian SIM, check first to see if your home operator has made any roaming agreements — Zambia is usually not on the top of their list. Also note that coverage in rural areas can be spotty.

Booths labeled "public telephone" these days consist, more often than not, of a guy renting out his cellphone. Typical rates are 5000K/min ($1) for domestic and 15000K/min ($3) for international calls.

By internet

Internet cafes are springing up in Zambia, but again, connections can be sporadic and very slow. Moreover, because constant electricity is not a guarantee, some Internet cafes operate backup generators, which can be extremely costly. Be prepared to see Internet cafe charges as high as 25 cents per minute. Some hotels might offer Internet connections to their guests.

UGANDA

2009-05-28T06:54:00.001-07:00

Overview

Winston Churchill called Uganda 'the pearl of Africa', presumably basing his opinion on the country's great natural beauty. From the moment the visitor lands at Entebbe's international airport, with its breathtaking equatorial location on the forested shore of island-strewn Lake Victoria, it is clear that Uganda is no ordinary safari destination.

Dominated by a century-old botanical garden alive with the chatter of acrobatic monkeys and colourful tropical birds, Entebbe itself is the least obviously urban of all comparably sized African towns. Just 40km (25 miles) distant, sprawled across seven hills, there is the capital Kampala. The bright modern feel of this bustling, cosmopolitan city reflects the ongoing economic growth and political stability that has characterised Uganda since 1986. Since the late 1980s, the nation has managed to move on from the abyss of civil war and the economic catastrophe of the Idi Amin days.

Uganda is where the East African savannah meets the West African jungle. In this lush country, one can observe lions prowling the open plains, track chimpanzees through the rainforest undergrowth, then navigate tropical channels teeming with hippos and crocs before setting off into the misty mountains to stare deep into the eyes of a mountain gorilla.

Uganda[1] is a country in East Africa. It is bordered on the east by Kenya, the north by Sudan, on the west by the Democratic Republic of the Congo, on the southwest by Rwanda, and on the south by Tanzania. Famously called the Pearl of Africa by Winston Churchill, it is home to one of the most diverse and concentrated ranges of African fauna including the highly endangered mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei) and the endangered common chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes).

Regions

Northern Uganda
Southwest Uganda - Most of the areas of interest to travelers are in the south-west part of the country, a side branch of the famous and volcanically active Great Rift Valley, with the exception of Jinja and Murchison Falls. Gorilla tracking draws most foreign tourists, and there are several troops of gorillas that can be visited in at least three different locations. Book gorillas tracking permits well in advance (6 months or more) to avoid disappointment. In Uganda there are so many tour companies that can arrange your Uganda safari
Rwenzori National Park - Interesting to the traveler is also the Rwenzori Mountains area near Kasese town. Here you can climb Mt. Margherita (5109 m/16,761 ft), go safari in Queen Elizabeth NP and experience the culture of the Bakonzo mountain people at Mitandi [2]

Cities

Kampala is a bustling African city. If you like the African urban vibe, are comfortable haggling for produce or are willing to share a pack of cigarettes and chat up the locals, then you could have an interesting day of it. Sadly, though, there is not much of interest for sightseeing, but it is not a particularly dangerous place to be in the city centre around the major hotels (but see below under Stay Safe). The National Museum is interesting but rather sad and run down and the colonial architecture of various buildings (particularly in Old Kampala) is nice but unexceptional. A visit to the Tombs of Buganda Kings at Kasubi is a great way to spend an entire day. The tombs are a world heritage site. The guides are more than happy to talk to you all day about all aspects of Bugandan culture, history, politics and language. A great first stop in Uganda. The market in Kampala is particularly impressive, just hop on a boda-boda and ask for the market.

Entebbe is built around the shores of Lake Victoria and is primarily active as the location of the airport, The Uganda Government house, the State House, was relocated to the town of Entebbe in November 2007. The drive to or from Kampala is about an hour. The United Nations uses Entebbe as a depot and staging area for their vehicles and heavy equipment that are part of peace keeping and other missions in the central African region. Entebbe offers a relaxed stopover alternative to Kampala on your way into or out of the country by airplane, as the air is clean, the streets are safe to walk, and the old colonial gardens and parks with the lake in the background make for a serene atmosphere. The old Botanical Gardens, while tired, will be of interest to botanists and birders unlikely to see specimens in the wild.

Jinja is the world-famous source of the Nile, and in Uganda more famously the source of Nile Beer. This is a popular destination for backpackers for its white-water rafting. Three main operators work the rapids, offering a range of options, including body surfing, kayaking lessons and a video or DVD of the experience afterwards. It is possible to arrange a day trip from any travel agent in Kampala. Be sure to use sunscreen! Bungee jumping, quad biking and zip wire across the Nile are all possible in Jinja, the adrenaline adventure capital of East Africa. Party until dawn after your activities at Nile River Explorers campsite.

Fort Portal is generally considered Uganda's most attractive settlement. Approached from Kampala through extensive tea plantations, it contains some fine old buildings and a superb Rwenzori backdrop.

Kabale is a small city in the far south of the country. There is not much to do, but it is the stopover to go to Lake Bunyonyi.

Kisoro is a town near Congo and Rwanda. There is nothing much out here, but it is the stopover to visit the National Park. A climb up the volcano could be done as a day trip from Kisoro town.

Rakai is a rural area where the original case of AIDS was discovered back in the early 1970s.

Other destinations

National Parks

The national parks are beautiful and, on the whole, uncrowded. See the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) website [3] or for details of gorilla tracking, safaris, chimpanzee tracking and more. Prices in several parks seem to be set at 20 (1 day), 35 (2 days),.. An ISIC student card cuts you a 25% off the entrance fees these days.

Ajai Game Reserve is in northern Uganda and boasts a new deluxe safari camp now under construction. A small reserve at 16,600 hectares, located on the east bank of the Albert Nile. Animal relocations from Murchison Falls National Park to Ajai are underway by Uganda Wildlife Safaris Ltd.

Aswa-Lolim former Game Reserve Is in northern Uganda on the east bank of the Albert Nile. Today it is a series of huge ranches, but there is still considerable wildlife which is controlled by the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Under a management contract Uganda Wildlife Safaris Ltd protects the wildlife of this former reserve and will soon offer safaris and build a tented camp.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the primary gorilla tracking location. There are troupes reached from Buhoma (north) and a new troupe reached from the south at Nkuringo.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is at the confluence of Rwanda and the DRC. One gorilla troop can be tracked from here, but its range sometimes takes it into one of the other two countries, so may not be accessible. The Virunga Mountains are the dramatic spine of the park, recently active volcanic peaks. Much other remarkable wildlife is in this often overlooked park.

Kabelaga National Park

Kafu River Basin Is an area in central Uganda that is managed and being developed by Uganda Wildlife Safaris Ltd. It is an area with considerable wildlife, but is outside the boundaries of any Park or Reserve. However wildlife migrates through this area and exists on several of the huge ranches up against the Kafu River.

Kidepo Valley National Park located in the extreme NE corner of Uganda on the Sudan border. Incredible wildlife here that comes right up to the Apoka Lodge. Elephant, zebra, nile buffalo, kob often visit the lodge.

Lake Mburo National Park located in southern Uganda. Use Mihingo Lodge just outside the park and take horse-back safaris from here.

Murchison Falls National Park offers a very nice boat (15000 USh.) trip getting surrounded by crocodiles and hippos. The nearby waterfall is dramatic and beautiful, as the entire Nile river plunges down 45 m (150 ft) and through a 7 m (23 ft) wide crevice. It is possible to do safaris - Murchison is full of a variety of wildlife, including elephants, giraffes, hartbeast, buffalo, and a few lions and leopards. For now it is still a little bit difficult to get as independent traveller. Take an early bus to Masindi and then try to arrange for transport to bring you to the park. With some luck you could get a free ride with the rangers. Or you could base out of Ajai Safari Camp and join one of the safaris that visits the park.

Queen Elizabeth National Park has several parts to it, but the main section between Lake Edward and Lake George is a more concentrated version of East African parks as far as animals are concerned, although with less splendid vistas unless the mist-shrouded Ruwenzori Mountains are visible. The Ugandan Kob is an endemic antelope (and is on the coat of arms along with the crested crane, including on currency). Worth considering is a drive among volcanic crater lakes on the south edge of the Ruwenzoris. Kazinga channel has the greatest concentration of Hippos in africa in this park and the park is home to the famous tree climbing lions.

Kibale Forest National Park near the town of Fort Portal is famed for chimpanzee tracking and is highly recommended. Twitchers will know that some of the best birding in central Africa is here too. The Kasese Crater Lakes are in the area.

Rwenzori National Park is a mountain range in south-west Uganda bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is 120 km (75 mi) long and 48 km (30 mi) wide with its highest peak at Mt. Stanley (5109 m/16,761 ft). The range was first described in the 2nd century by ancient Greek astronomer Ptolemy as the "Mountains of the moon", and first ascended in 1896 by Italian explorers. By the end of 2006, its ice cap has retreated from 6.4 square kilometres (2.5 sq mi) a century ago, to less than a 1.28 square kilometres (0.5 sq mi). In the Rwenzori Mountains near Fort Portal you find Mitandi [4]. The place represents an unique opportunity to explore the mountains and get to know the culture of the local Bakonzo mountain people.

More information here: Uganda National Parks [5].

See also: African National Parks

Islands

Ssese Islands is a beautiful stretch of islands on Victoria Lake with isolated beaches and a bit of jungle. Jungle walks you could easily manage on your own, spending half a day. Beware that there is bilharzia in Victoria Lake, so if you swim, go check up with the doctor afterwards. However, you can expect to spend around 8 hours getting to the Ssese islands. As an alternative, Busi island can be reached in around 45 minutes from Entebbe. there is a camp site, with a small number of beds in a dorm and some bandas which are presently under construction.

Lake Bunyonyi is a charming lake dotted with little islands you could relax on. The area is considered to look a bit like Switzerland.

Ngamba Island is small fascinating island of Lake Victoria where Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary is located. The Sanctuary was established in the October 1998 as a project to take care of young orphaned Chimpanzees. When they grow up, they are taken to the forest to live in a natural environments. Chimpanzee tracking safaris [6] to Ngamba Chimpanzee sanctuary take place all year round.

Understand

During Uganda's era of British colonialism, settlement by Europeans was not allowed, and today there are few Caucasians in Uganda. The term for whites is muzungu (plural bazungu), and Caucasian visitors should get used to hearing it shouted out by children in every corner of the country. It is not a derogatory term per se, so smile and wave in reply. (Do not give out sweets or — worse - money because begging by children is growing in the touristy parts of Uganda near the gorillas.)

Uganda is accessible and affordable, but not up to the high tourism standards of more mature destinations such as Kenya or Tanzania, much less South Africa. This gives it more edge, more authenticity and less predictability. This does not mean danger (but see Stay Safe section below), rather greater opportunities for delight -- and frustration. This is real Africa, the dirty urban bustle of Kampala bursting at the seams then giving way to lush subsistence farming and small villages. Roads are rough, people are friendly, everything seems to have a smell all its own, and not everything moves according to schedule or to plan.

Most travellers come for the gorilla Safari[7], but other major draws are the chimpanzees, birding, trekking the Rwenzoris, and visiting the source of the Nile River.

Uganda Tourist Board, ? +256 41 342196 (utb@starcom.co.ug), [8].

War Dance [9] is an excellent movie that showcases life in the north of the country.

Get in

By plane

Entebbe Airport is the hub for Ugandan air travel. Many flights to cities in Africa take place from here. Direct flights to and from Johannesburg run three days a week on South African Airways.
Direct flights to and from London run every other day on British Airways.
Emirates offers flights from Entebbe to Dubai via Nairobi and Addis Ababa on Airbus A340S

with onward connections to Europe, N. America, and Asia from Dubai.

Ethiopian Airlines offers service to Addis on Boeing 737s.
Kenya Airways and KLM fly daily from Entebbe to Amsterdam either via Nairobi or direct.
Brussels Airlines [10] flies non-stop from Entebbe to Brussels, where you can take a connecting flight to the rest of Europe or to India, China or the USA

By train

There is currently no passenger train service to or in Uganda.

By car

Contact the staff at Mitandi [11] in the Rwenzori Mountains. They arrange cheap transport with local minibuses. The crew is friendly and service-minded.

By bus

Several bus companies offer direct lines between Kampala to Nairobi, Kigali and Dar es Salaam. A night bus from Kampala could start at 4PM to arrive at 6AM in Nairobi, costing 23000 USh.

Alternatively do the trip in stages. Take a matatu or bus up to the border and walk to the other side.

By Land

Going South from Sudan the border is not all that stable, but after the peace agreement between the South and North of Sudan, the border is open, and anyone can cross freely.

Get around

By boda-boda

In Kampala and some other towns, the boda-boda is a good way to get from place to place. These are small mopeds, motorcycles, bicycles or scooters with cushions on the back and are cheap transport as used by locals. If using Boda-Bodas, be extremely careful as they are frequently involved in accidents; however, in spite of this they are a fun and fast way to get around. Note that if you advise the driver that you want him to drive slower and safer, he may actually listen to you.

By bus

Uganda has decent bus system. There are two classes of buses. The "taxis" are actually minibuses or commuter vans called which run fixed routes (see below).

There are also real buses which run less frequently, usually leaving Kampala early in the morning. There are many companies which almost all leave from the same general area. The buses fill up so if you get on mid trip you'll be spending some time standing or sitting in the aisle before somebody gets off and you can get a seat.

Both buses and taxis run along most roads between cities, paved (sealed) or dirt.

Domestic bus travel is reasonable and cheap between major centres, and is a good choice for backpackers with time, but may not run reliably on schedule. A trip from Kampala to Masindi takes about 4 hours and costs approximately 8000 Uganda shillings.

Note that both buses and "taxis" do not run on fixed schedules; rather, they leave their terminus stop when they are completely full. On heavily-travelled routes they fill up within minutes and this is not a problem, but on less-travelled routes (or if getting on a large bus), be prepared to wait a while before departure.

By taxi

The best way to get around Kampala and the neighbouring towns is by using minibus-type taxis called matatus. This is the most efficient and cost-effective method of transportation in urban areas, but try not to get ripped off by the conductors as they sometimes try to overcharge tourists. They are crowded, cheap, frequent, and make lots of stops.

They run along fixed routes, picking up and dropping off people anywhere along the route. If you want to get on, stand at the side of the road and wave your arm. To get off, say "stage" and the driver will pull over and let you off. They're not marked with destinations, so you'll have to listen to the destinations that the drivers are yelling out the window. If you're not sure where to catch a taxi going to your destination (especially at Kampala taxi park, which is huge!), just ask a nearby driver or conductor, and they'll probably be able to point you in the right direction.

Taxis, called special hire taxis, are available in most every decent sized town. Fares are negotiable over long distances.

By car

The roads in Uganda are comparable to many in Sub-Saharan Africa. Most of the main roads are metalled though the condition of them can deteriorate in patches. And some become extremely pot holed. Many of the minor roads and side roads are made of hard packed earth (murum) and when graded are quite quick and reasonable. However they will deteriorate in heavy rains and wash boarding frequently occurs. The best way to deal with the wash boarding is not to slow down, but to find a speed sympathetic to the road surface and effectively skip from ridge to ridge. Untarred roads, if wet, may be impassable in the mountainous regions of the south-west. Commercial drivers of buses and trucks compound the danger, as do pedestrians, livestock, cyclists, dogs, and the odd police roadblock. Plan on 60km/hr as a typical rate of travel (speed will vary, though!). The best advice is drive cautiously and stay totally alert.

When planning a journey it is best not to ask how far it is but to ask how long it will take. Local drivers normally have a good idea of how long journeys will take.

Expect to pay a lot to hire a vehicle. A sensible choice is to hire a 4x4 with a driver given that you will need local language assistance and expertise should something happen on the roads. Most places have accommodation and meals for drivers as this is common among travellers. This will cost upwards of USD100.00 per day (not including fuel) with the cheapest vehicles typically having no windows, a canvas roof, an assembly date in the 1970's and so on. You get what you pay for. A cheap option is likely to leave you stranded somewhere remote and that can mean days of your itinerary lost. (Caveat emptor for those hiring from Walter Egger in Jinja for just this reason!) Unless you are comfortable paying cash in advance without a signed contract and no network to help you get out of a breakdown, go to one of the major agencies.

Talk

English is widely spoken as the lingua franca, but Swahili will come in handy in places (though many Ugandans do not speak Swahili at all, it is a common African trade language). As English is the official language, many people in the major cities speak English (though to varying degrees of fluency). Dozens of African languages are spoken in Uganda, the most common being Luganda and Lusoga.

A few words or stock phrases in the various dialects are very easy to learn and most locals will be delighted to help you learn the highly ritualised greeting, and in turn, every person you greet in this way will be delighted to meet you.

olio-tia = how are you?; bulungi/gendi = i am fine; jabalay = how is it here/how is work?; kalay = ok

Nyabo = madam; ssebo = sir

Mzungu = European, but used more commonly to refer to all foreign and, especially, white people

The Swahili 'Hujambo' meaning hello is used everywhere and you will hear lots of ecstatic children waving, jumping, hopping and singing Jambo mzungu as you roll past.

Do

Go on gorilla tracking. You'll need to buy a permit which must be booked long time ahead due to limited availability (only few tourists are taken near the gorillas a day, in order not to disturb them). With a permit in hand, you are allowed 1 hour on very close hand of a group of the highly endangered mountain gorilla in their natural habitat. Uganda Wildlife Authority handles the sale of permits which cost several hundreds US dollars each [12].

Rafting on the Nile. Uganda is a world class rafting destination and several companies arrange trips down the Nile - from half a day to 3-day trips, from peaceful family trips to very adventurous grade 5 rafting. 75 US$ will buy you a rafting adventure with transport from Kampala and food and drink included. Nalubale Rafting comes highly recommended. Nile River Explorers is also a great company, they are the best price around, have great guides, and you get the standard host of a huge free breakfast, floating lunch, and an amazing bbq (veggies are well accommodated)

Quad biking. Near the Spring of the Nile you can rent quad bikes (a 4-wheeled motorbike - also known as All Terrain Bike) for a speedy (and dusty) sightseeing trip with a local guide.

Go on a Safari.
- Uganda Wildlife Safaris (Uganda Wildlife Photographic Safaris Ltd.), 1 Jakana Close, Munyonyo (PO Box 70513, Clock Tower, Kampala, Uganda), ? Office: +256-414501018 (info@uganda-wildlife-photographic-safaris.com), [13]. Office hours:9am to 5pm Mon to Friday GMT+3. Offer a range on safaris and manage game reserves under contract to Uganda Wildlife Authority.

Go to Sipi, about 1 hour from Mbale. It's a beautiful little town on top of a hill, sporting fantastic views on and hikes to waterfalls. If you don't feel like having a guide, tell them that you'd like to do it yourself and eventually they will leave you alone. Great place to stay over night in Sipi is the Crow's nest with amazing views onto the waterfalls. Crows nest is alright but do not expect hotel quality service and if you are smart, you will bring your own food because their food comes even slower than any local restaurant and is absolutely terrible.

Buy

The national currency is the Ugandan shilling, code UGX, sometimes written as UgSh. There are 50000, 20000, 10000, 5000 and 1000 shilling notes and 200, 100, 50 and 10 shilling coins (although the 10 shilling coin is no longer issued).

Other currencies that might be accepted for transactions are the US dollar (USD), notes must have been issued since 2000, or possibly the Euro (EUR) or British pound (GBP). Older US notes might not be accepted even in banks but newer US notes can be spent directly at fair exchange rates, although you will receive shillings in change.

With Visa debit/atm cards you can withdraw money in at least one ATM in Kampala's City Garden mall. With MasterCard debit/atm cards, you can withdraw money from any Stanbic bank, which are in many points around Kampala, from the large Western shopping mall Garden City to campus hangout Wandegaya to Ntinda and Gayaza Road. Stanbic banks are seen throughout Uganda, from Mbarare to Gulu. Information can be obtained from the bank branches. As for your American Express card: leave it at home - you can't use it except at Major Hotels and Airlines. American Express members also have other benefits that may come in handy such as emergency cash.

Banana Boat, an overpriced but pleasant gift shop in Kampala, takes several credit cards, and can be found in Lugogo shopping area and Garden City. They sell traditional dolls, postcards, books, leather sandals, jewellery, and many other items. Gifts can always be found much cheaper if you can bargain at other craft shops, but they don't take credit cards. Also check out Uganda Crafts, on Bombo Road, a fair trade craft shop with reasonable prices and a great basket selection.

You might be able to use U.S. dollars, but I would recommend exchanging your money for shillings (it's about 1700 shillings to the U.S. dollar, and about 3400 shillings to the U.S. pound- a bottle of water is about 500 shillings, a candy bar is 500 shillings, a meal can range from 2000 shillings to 15000 shillings).

Cashing travellers checks can be difficult. Exchanging notes is possible in the larger towns if you need Ugandan Shillings. Note that there are better rates for exchanging larger notes (US$50 or more), so do it in big chunks if you need to. Try to have all your cash needs arranged before leaving Kampala if you can ('red-fox' forex on Kampala Road is thought to offer the best rates in the country).

Costs

Food and goods are cheap. On a shoestring you can get by on less than 10 euro a day, excluding park visits and other expensive activities. Make sure you bargain for everything you buy around town except in the bigger stores and malls. Never pay face value when buying from the local vendors around town. Hotels can be costly, so if you are a student it would be a good idea to look for a hostel in Kampala. Most people have to buy a visa when they arrive at the airport currently (2006-May-04) this costs US $50 (single-entry 3 month). Bills must be newer than 2000! You used to have to pay when you left the country (air-tax), but this has been removed.

Tipping is not part of Ugandan culture and not expected, but it would definitely get you amazing service.

Eat

Food from Uganda is a sensation. You could sample the luwombo, which is meat cooked in green leaves. It has a tantalising aroma. You could also try the fried fish, though its mainly cooked on the beach and it is found to be succulent. You might also want to try the traditional matooke, binyebwa (ground nut sauce), chappatti, and meat stew. Toasted sandwiches can be found in some places for the less adventurous. If this does not appeal, it is best (and far more interesting) to stop at roadside stands or in markets to purchase fresh produce -- fruits and vegetables abound and are very cheap, to say nothing of the roasted mealies and roasted chicken. There are also a number of fast-food places, such as Nando’s, Steers, Domino’s Pizza, and Hungry Lion, in the city centre.

A basic local dish start at around 500 USh, and goes up to 3000 USh. A cut-up pineapple you can have for only 300.

See the Fang Fang Hotel below for good Chinese food in Kampala. Other Chinese restaurants with good food include Fang fang restaurant (different from hotel above), China Palace, and Golden China restaurant all located in the city centre.

In Entebbe, try the Boma Guesthouse on Gowers Rd. (see below under Sleep). Local food in Entebbe can be found at the Golf course restaurant and at the Airport Motel among other places.

In Jinja, the Ling Ling offers some great Chinese food. But head downtown on Main Street to the Source Cafe for a great variety of food (and you can surf the web while you eat).

Drink

Coffee is one of the best products from Uganda, but the British hooked the locals on tea, so finding a decent cup of native joe is nearly impossible, especially outside of Kampala. In Kampala, try the coffee house 1000 Cups on Buganda Road. Their coffee is also sold at the airport, Banana Boat stores, and many hotels. The coffee is marketed under the name Kiira Kawa (River Coffee). In Jinja, stop by the Source Cafe for an incredible cappuccino--they had the sweetest espresso machine!

Chai tea is available widely, and is best in the rural areas near the tea plantations. You will see signs posted on shops and kiosks where it can be purchased. Sadly, ordinary black tea is likely to be Five Roses imported from South Africa, not the local tea.

Lower-end South African wine can be had in some restaurants, but stick with the beer. Any of the four major brands are acceptable, though the Pilsner brand is the only one made without added corn sugar for those who care about such things.

Be advised to drink Bottled water. Water flowing from taps is not treated.

Sleep

There are many hotels in Uganda. If you go on the higher end you will pay high prices, over $100 per night. Standard traveller hotels will have simple rooms with shared bathrooms for around 3,000 to 10,000 shillings. Many places will rent you a tent, or place to pitch a tent for the budget traveller. These are most frequently used by Truck tours which are popular with the less independent traveller there also Bed & Breakfast establishments to make you have a homely feel away from home at the lowest rates.

National Parks

The accommodations provided in the national parks by UWA are generally of a good standard and are quite inexpensive compared to alternatives. They vary in amenities and price, and the cheapest can be as little as USD5.00 or less per person per night.

Few moderately priced options are available, and the high end, while expensive, are substandard compared to the high end options of Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa and other mature tourist destinations in Africa. Unfortunately, few alternatives are available. There are some notable exceptions, but best to go either highest end or stay in the UWA budget accommodations and spend more on a better vehicle!

Stay safe

Uganda has been home to some of the more gruesome atrocities in modern African history since its independence in 1962, particularly under the heinous dictator Idi Amin, but in the years since 1987 things have consistently improved. Today, in 2009, the single party state is relatively stable after 25 years of stereotypically 'strong man' rule by Yoweri Museveni. Kampala has changed into a major center of East African trade.

Travel north to Murchison Falls National Park and Ajai Game Reserve is perfectly safe. Note that overlanders from Tanzania and Kenya regularly make the trip routing through [[Jinja.

As in any urban area, Kampala can be dodgy. One is well advised to remain in tourist areas, but sensibly garbed visitors not dangling the latest cameras, flashy jewellery or bulging bags are not likely to draw unwanted attention to themselves. However, any Caucasians walking in the street stand out and are likely to be stared at openly, which may cause discomfort to those unaccustomed to travelling in Africa. What little begging exists is some of the most polite and inoffensive to be found in African cities. Small children are sadly becoming a nuisance in some rural spots frequented by tourists doling out sweets and coins, but nowhere near the swarming throng one can attract in many cities around the world.

In the gorilla tracking region of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park near the border with the DRC there was one incident in the late 1990's in which bandits attacked a group of tourists and killed several people. Since then there have been no incidents and all groups now go out with armed guards (which was not the case before). There is a visible security presence in the region, but this is a preventative measure rather than a response to anything specific.

Stay healthy

AIDS/HIV infection rate is very high.

Take precautions against malaria! It is worth seeking out a packet of Artenam while you are in Kampala if you are travelling up-country. Artenam is a reliable treatment and works on chloroquine-resistant malaria strains too.

Remember, that many of the lakes have bilharzia. Check with the locals and do not paddle on the lake shore if you're not sure.

Respect

Uganda has a fairly conservative Christian/Muslim based society. It is not considered acceptable for women to wear skimpy clothing or to have overt displays of sexuality. Most Ugandans go to church / mosque regularly and consider religion an important part of a moral society. Never criticize religion in presence of an Ugandan!

You will not be taken seriously if you wear shorts outside the obvious tourist destinations and no adult Ugandan would ever wear shorts. Use a pair of light trousers to blend in better.

Don't be surprised if you see two men holding hands. They are not homosexual, since homosexuality is regrettably forbidden by law and is indeed punishable. Good friends do this often.

Contact

Mobile phone network coverage is available in most parts of the country (over 70% [14]), but geography can make trouble in the mountainous regions. SIM cards are cheaply available everywhere in 'starter packs'.

Internet cafes can be readily found in Kampala and Jinja. In all towns with more than about 20,000 you'll find internet cafes running off of either VSATs or mobile phones. The Internet connection bandwidth is very low and can be frustrating for one who is used to a high speed internet connection.

TUNISIA

2009-05-28T06:52:00.000-07:00

Overview

North Africa's smallest country packs in enough diversity for a continent. Vestiges of former rulers dot the landscape: the remains of the mighty city-state of Carthage; Roman ruins that demonstrate this was Rome's richest imperial province; medieval medinas (walled cities) built at the beginning of the Arabic era; and elegant 19th century French colonial boulevards. The country's cuisine is also a delicious hotchpotch - French, North African, Middle Eastern and Turkish.

Beautiful beaches punctuate its 1,400km (875 miles) of Mediterranean coast. In the south lie the undulating Sahara, salt lakes and otherworldly Berber architecture, used as locations for Star Wars and the English Patient. In the north, mountains are cloaked in cork forest, while the Cap Bon peninsular and central Tunisia are rich in fruit trees, olive groves and vineyards.

This is Arabia at its most relaxed. Women's rights are better served than anywhere else in the Arabic world. Alcohol is freely available. After independence in 1956, Tunisia was ruled for three decades by Habib Bourguiba, a great paternalist and moderniser. Since his fall, President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali has continued along a similar path, focusing on a separation of state and religion, exerting strict media control and discouraging Islamic fundamentalism and any type of opposition.

Tunisia [1] is a country in Northern Africa that has a Mediterranean Sea coastline in the very centre of Mediterranean Africa. Tunisia lies immediately to the south of Italy and Malta. Libya borders Tunisia to the south-east, whilst Algeria lies to the west.

Regions

Administrative divisions: 24 governorates; Ariana (Aryana), Beja (Baja), Ben Arous (Bin 'Arus), Bizerte (Banzart), El Kef (El Kaf), Gabes (Gabis), Gafsa (Gafsah), Jendouba (Jandouba), Kairouan (Al Qayrawan), Kasserine (Gasryn), Kebili (Guebilli), Mahdia (Al Mahdiya),Mannouba (Mannouba), Medenine (Midnin), Monastir (Munastir), Nabeul (Nabul), Sfax (Safaqis), Sidi BouZid (Sidi BouZid), Siliana (Siliana), Sousse (Soussa), Tataouine (Tatawin), Tozeur (Touzer), Tunis, Zaghouan (Zaghwen)

Cities

Tunis - the capital of Tunisia
Bizerte
Kairouan
El Kef
Gabes
La Goulette
Nefta
Hammamet
Sfax
Sousse
Tozeur
Monastir - Main charter airport for Tunisia

Other destinations

Port El Kantaoui — a popular tourist destination in Tunisia, north of Sousse.
Djerba — a popular tourist destination on a Mediterranean island in the south.
Douz — tourist town on the edge of the Sahara, where you can hitch a camel ride.
Jugurtha's Table — a large mesa with a moon like surface and deep crevasses in the northwest of the country (under Get Out section of El Kef).
El Jem one of the best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world.
Dougga impressive ruins of a remote Roman city
Kerkouane remnants of the sole untouched Punic settlement
Matmata — desert village of cave abodes, where Star Wars's Tatooine was filmed.
Sidi Bou Said — picturesque seaside town of white houses with blue doors and shutters.
Sufetula or Sbeitla — a fairly well preserved Roman settlement in the mid-west area of Tunisia.
Skanes pronounced "SKAH-nis" Midway between Sousse and Monastir. Fairly quiet resort but ideal as a base for the 2 towns.
Metlaoui — get aboard the restored Red Lizard vintage train snaking through scenic gorges and hills.
Carthage — famously razed by the Romans; remnants now encased in a museum; site easily reached by train

Understand

Climate

Temperate in north with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers; desert in south.

Terrain

Mountains in north; hot, dry central plain; semiarid south merges into the Sahara desert.

Elevation extremes: lowest point: Shatt al Gharsah -17 m
highest point: Jebel ech Chambi 1,544 m

History

Independence : 20 March 1956 (from France)

National holiday : Independence Day, 20 March - a time when hotel rooms are completely booked. Plan accordingly.

Following independence from France in 1956, President Habib Bourguiba established a strict one-party state. He dominated the country for 31 years, repressing Islamic fundamentalism and establishing rights for women unmatched by any other Arab nation. In recent years, Tunisia has taken a moderate, non-aligned stance in its foreign relations. Domestically, it has sought to diffuse rising pressure for a more open political society.

Malta and Tunisia are discussing the commercial exploitation of the continental shelf between their countries, particularly for oil exploration.

Get in

No visa is required for Americans, Canadians, European Community and Great Maghreb nationals (Libya, Algeria, Morocco and Mauritania). A landing visa (on arrival) is available for Australians. For New Zealand, other African and Asian countries' nationals, a visa must be applied for at the embassy of coverage.

By plane

Tunisia's main international airport for scheduled flights is Tunis-Carthage International Airport (TUN) near Tunis. From the airport, you can catch a taxi to the center of Tunis (beware, meters may be rigged). Alternatively, take bus # 635 or # 35 to Ave Habib Bourguiba for around 1 dinar. The bus comes roughly every half-hour and stops in front of the terminal.

Tunisia's second airport is Habib Bourguiba, Skanes-Monastir(MIR) which is served by low cost charter flights from all over Europe. Monastir is nearer to most of the holiday destinations. Inexpensive charter flights (at least from the UK) are also available. Other international airports include Tozeur and Djerba.

Other Airports countrywide are serving national and international flights, and here is a list of the Tunisia's Airports: Tunis Carthage Intl Airport near Tunis (North Tunisia) - [2] Habib Bourguiba Skanes Monastir near Monastir (Central East Tunisia) - Sfax Thyna Airport near Sfax (Central East Tunisia) - Tozeur Nefta Intl Airport near Tozeur (South West Tunisia) - Gafsa Airport near Gafsa (South West Tunisia) - Tabarka November 7th 1987 near Tabarka (North West Tunisia) - Djerba International Airport in Djerba Island (South East Tunisia) - [3]

By boat

Ferry services link Tunis to Malta, Trapani (Sicily, Italy), Naples (Italy), Genoa (Italy) and Marseille (France). Travelling boats generally leave from La Goulette port (near Tunis). Other commercial ports are also available (Rades, Gabes, Sousse, Sfax, Zarzis...)

Get around

By Plane

SevenAir is the domestic airline branched off of TunisAir. You can fly between Tunis and Tozeur, Djerba and Gabes, as well as flights to Malta and Bizerte. French-only website, booking still not online only through agencies SevenAir.

By Car

Tunisian highways resembles US Interstate or the Highways of Europe with a dual carriageway : A-1 runs from Tunis south heading to Sfax (The section from Sousse to Sfax has recenly been opened June 2008), A-2 runs from Tunis north heading to Bizerte, and A-3 runs from Tunis West heading to Oued Zarga. Tunisian highways speed limit is 110 km/h. It is possible to maintain that speed on that road very easily. The routes shown on some maps have a planned extension to Gabes then Ras Jedir (Libya Frontiers) in the South as of 2011-2014 and to Ghardimaou (Algerian Frontiers) in the West, but several years later. The remaining Highways have single carriageways, with traffic round-abouts at major intersections, which follow the European model (those in the roundabout have the right of way). Consequently, on roads other than the A-1,2,3 it can be difficult to maintain an average speed of more than 75 km/h most of the time as the speed limit is 90 Km/h. Almost all road signs are in both Arabic and French.

Driving in Tunis is very different than in the rest of the country, with traffic signals being widely ignored, and lane markings likewise treated as theoretical only. To see the Medina of Tunis, it would be best to park some distance from the Medina, and take the light rail (called TGM) in from Marsa/Carthage, the green tramway (called Metro) downtown, or perhaps a taxi in from the nearer outskirts.

Rental Cars are fairly easy to find, but somewhat expensive, at 80 dinars or so a day, for a medium sized car such as a four door Renault Clio. Www.rhinocarhire.com has a good range of rental vehicles.

By taxi

Private taxis are reasonably priced even for long-distance travel, just be sure to agree on the fare before you set off. Sample fares for a four-seater are 40 euros for Tunis-Hammamet or 50 euros for Monastir-Hammamet [4].

By train

The national train company SNCFT[5] runs modern and comfortable trains from Tunis south to Sousse, Sfax and Monastir. There are three classes of service, namely Grand confort (deluxe 1st), 1st and 2nd, and all are quite adequate. Example fares from Tunis to Sousse are 12/10/6 dinars (6/5/3 Euros) in Grand/1st/2nd class.

A good thing to do is to buy a carte bleue (blue card). It costs around 20 dinars for a week and you can travel all around the country using the banlieue (short distance train) and grande ligne (long distance). For the long distance you will have to make a reservation and pay a small fee (1,50 dinars or so). These passes can also be bought to cover 10 or 14 days. There are rarely queues at the booking office and a little bit of French goes a long way. Trains go also to Tozeur and Gabes in the south where it is easy to access the Sahara and Ksour regions respectively.

A light railway (Called TGM) also connects Tunis northward to Carthage and Marsa. Take this light railway system to Sidi Bou Said as well. One-way light railway tickets will cost approximately 675 millimes (1 Dinar = 1,000 millimes = 55 Euro Cents).

By louage

Locals use louage or long-haul shared taxis where there is no train or bus. There are no timetables, but they wait in the louage station (which is generally near a train station if your destination is accessible by train) until 8 people turn up. They are nearly as cheap as the walk up train fares and operate with fixed prices so you won't get scalped. eg Douz to Gabes (120km) for 7 dinars. Be aware that while louages are very cheap, they can also be stifling hot during the summer months and tourists may be hassled. Furthermore, louages have the reputation to drive at a fast pace, and to be less safe than other transportation, so be aware of that. Louage departures are very frequent, a louage departs as soon as the seats are filled. All Louage cars are of white color, with a side stripe showing the coverage area. Louages between major cities are recognizable by their red stripe, louages within region are recognizable by their blue stripe and Louages serving rural areas are recognizable by thein Yellow strips (the Rural Louage can be Yellow with blue stripes, or a van fully painted in brown color).

By bus

Long distance bus (called car)[6] is also a safe and economic way to travel between major cities such as Tunis, Nabeul, Hammamet, etc. You will generally find a station in each major city offering many departures per day (every 30 minutes between Tunis and Hammamet). Some of the bus locally called "car comfort" offer higher standards (tv, air conditioner) at cheap prices.

Language

Arabic is the official language of Tunisia and one of the languages of commerce, the other being French — a relic of Tunisia's former status as a French protectorate until 1956. English is of limited use, but fine for use around tourist areas.

Buy

The national currency is the Tunisian dinar. US$1 = 1.42915 dinar, €1 = 1.85743 dinar and GBPL1 = 2.00834 Dinar (17 March 2009). Typical banknotes are 30,20,10,5 Dinars. The Dinar is divided into 1000 Millemes, with typical coins being 5 Dinars (Silver with copper insert), 1 Dinar (large silver color), 500 Millemes (1/2 Dinar: smaller silver color), 100 and 50 Millemes, (large brass), 20 and 10 Millemes (smaller brass) and 5 Millemes (small aluminum). It is prohibited to bring dinars in and out of Tunisia, so you have to change your money locally.

Prices are typically marked in Dinars and Millemes, with a decimal point like: 5.600 or 24.000 or 0.360 sometimes with TND as a label like TND85.500 . Markets typically sell items by the Kilogram. So tomatoes may have a sign "480" on them which means 480 Millemes per Kilo. Good cheese will be marked something like 12.400 or about $10 a Kilo. Most self-serve supermarkets expect you to put your purchases in supplied plastic bags and then bring them to a nearby "balance" where a worker will weigh them and apply a price sticker.

Eat

Tunisian cuisine is very much in the Northern African Maghreb tradition, with couscous and marqa stews (similar to the Moroccan tajine, however what Tunisians refer to as "tajines" are nothing like the Moroccan variety) forming the backbone of most meals. Distinguishing characteristics are the fiery harissa chili sauce, the heavy use of tiny olives which are abundant in the country, and tajines in Tunisia (not to be confused with their Moroccan counterparts) refer to a type of omelette-like pie prepared with a ragout of meat and/or vegetables mixed with ingredients such as herbs, legumes and even offal, then enriched with eggs and cheese and finally baked in a deep pie dish until the eggs are just set, somewhat like an Italian frittata. Lamb forms the basis of most meat dishes. Local seafood is plentiful.

Shorba Frik - lamb soup
Coucha - shoulder of lamb cooked with turmeric and cayenne pepper
Khobz Tabouna - (pronounce Khobz Taboona) traditional oven baked bread
Brik - very crispy thin pastry with a whole egg (Brik a l'oeuf), parsley and onions and perhaps, meat too e.g. minced lamb or tuna (Brik au thon). Very tasty as an inexpensive starter. Eat it very carefully with your fingers.
Berber Lamb - Lamb cooked with potatoes, carrots in a clay pot.
Merguez - small spicy sausages.
Salade Tunisienne - lettuce, green pepper, tomato, onions, olives, radishes mixed with tuna.
Tunisian cakes - sweets related to Baklava.
Harissa - very hot spicy chili paste (somtimes milded with carrots or yogurt), served with bread as a starter at almost any meal.
Fricasse - small fried sandwich with tuna, harissa, olives and olive oil.
Bambaloony - fried sweet donut-like cake served with sugar.

Regrettably, Tunisia has a very underdeveloped restaurant culture and most food prepared outside of Tunisian homes is disappointingly bland and carelessly presented. These characteristics tend to apply across the price scale, though one can occasionally eat tasty couscous or "coucha" stew in some low-priced restaurants. One's best hope for good eating in Tunisia is to be invited as a guest in someone's home.

Drink

Being a progressive Muslim country, alcohol availability is restricted (but not greatly) to certain licensed (and invariably more expensive) restaurants, resort areas and Magasin General shops. Large department stores (Carrefour at Marsa/Carthage) and some supermarkets (e.g. Monoprix) sell beer and wine, and some local and imported hard liquors, except during Muslim holidays. Female travelers should be aware that, outside resort and areas of significant tourist concentration, they may find themselves with a beer in a smoky bar full of men drinking in a rather dedicated fashion. Some bars will refuse to admit women, others may ask for a passport to check nationality. Look around a bar before you decide to imbibe!

Beer - Celtia is the popular local brand, but some places also carry imported pilsner beers. Locally brewed LowenBrau is decent, and Heineken is planning a Tunisian Brewery in 2007. Celtia "En Pression" (On Tap) is good. Celestia is a non-alcoholic beer which is also popular.
Wine - Most places that serve alcohol will have Tunisian wine, which is quite good. Tunisian wine always was produced by French oenologists. Most of it was exported to France till the 1970s. Wine cooperatives were left and produce 80% of the wine which is served mostly to tourists. Since the privatisation of some parts of these cooperatives the international taste of wine entered the market in Tunisia. The small companies like Domaine Atlas, St. Augustin, Ceptunes etc. have successfully established the new generation of Tunisian wine. Importation of wine is extremely difficult because of very high taxes. Some high-end hotel restaurants can make French or Italian wines miraculously appear at a price.
Boukha - is a Tunisian brandy made from figs.
Coffee - served strong in small cups. Tunisian cappuccino is also served strong in small cups. "Cafe Creme" is available in many tourist areas and may even appear in an "American Cup".
Tea - is generally taken after meals.
Mint Tea - very sweet peppermint tea that is taken at any time of the day.

Sleep

There are lots of fine hotels in Tunisia. You can also rent a furnished apartment. Some private people offer their own apartments for rent especially in summer. It is advisable to organise your accommodations online or by phone prior to your arrival.

Learn

The Bourguiba Institute of Modern Languages [7] offers intensive summer sessions in July and August for anyone interested in learning Modern Standard Arabic or Tunisian dialect. In the 2005 summer session there were over 500 students of all ages from throughout the world. This included students from the USA, France, Belgium, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria, Norway, Croatia, Turkey, Japan, China, etc.

On the first day of class, there is placement exam. The levels range from absolute beginner to advanced, with 15 to 25 students per class. Only Arabic is allowed in the classroom. We used both a course book developed by Bourguiba Institute and also music videos in Arabic with the accompanying text.

The courses are daily from 8:00 AM to 1:15 PM. In the afternoon there are activities and tours of the medina and museums. They also offer optional weekend excursions to sites in Tunisia. At the end of the one-month course there is both a written and oral exam.

Several students complained about the lack of cleanliness in the student dorms. Some students stayed in a hotel and then rented a beach-side apartment for the month. It's usually easier to negotiate rental prices once you are in Tunis.

Some students also expressed concern with the school's methodology, which appears to be antiquated and in need of great revision. If you have studied Arabic before, whether in your home country or in another school in the region, be prepared for a substandard continuation of your Arabic studies.

The school is located in the city of Tunis. It's about a 20 minute metro ride to the beach. If you go to the summer school, be prepared for the hot temperatures.

Work

Work issues are quite sensitive in Tunisia as job offers are limited even for Tunisian nationals. Foreign investors are welcome to establish projects and government is providing facilities related authorizations for such initiatives. High level jobs are often requiring high experience and excellent skills. For low level employment, jobs are focusing mainly on services in most of the sectors. Salaries are low compared to other country's salaries, but they are established according to the low cost of life in Tunisia.

Stay safe

It is apparently not considered rude for a man to stare at a woman's body which should indicate that modesty will attract less attention. Women can expect to be the target of frequent catcalls ("Gazelle" seems to be especially popular).

Tunisian women often wear outfits that would normally be seen on the streets of any major world city (tight jeans, slinky top), but they do so while showing traditional modesty by exposing virtually no skin. Arms are covered down to the wrists, collars go to the neck (cleavage is non-existent) and a head scarf may be worn. Western women visiting can minimize attention by selecting clothes that minimizes skin shown. V-necks are fine if another layer with a higher collar is worn underdeath.

Travellers report problems being pestered either to buy something or for other purposes. Persistence is a major complaint. Some say that a refusal often results in a bad reaction, "being hissed at" is one example, but those who have been advised to refuse politely with a smile rarely complain. "Non, Merci" is a very good response, with a smile. This seems to be borne out by the reports of sole female travellers who you would expect to receive the most attention, but who often report the least problems (from an admittedly small sample), perhaps because they are more cautious than accompanied females. It certainly seems to be the case that sole female sea bathers attract a good deal of unwelcome attention (even molestation) until a male friend arrives.

Theft of belongings, even from hotel rooms and room safes, is widely reported and the usual caveats apply - keep valuables in a secure place (e.g. supervised hotel safe deposit), do not flash too much cash, and keep wallets, purses and other desirable items where pick pockets cannot reach them. A good recommendation is only to carry enough cash for your immediate requirements and only one credit or bank card, provided you can be assured of the security of your reserves. Besides, most of the Automatic Bank-notes distributors are available and foreign credit cards are accepted. You can take cash (in equivalent Tunisian Dinar) directly from your bank account with a small extra fee (Bank transaction from 1 to 2 euros).

Theft is also reported in the Airport. Keep your belongings under your direct supervision all the time.

Stay healthy

Malaria - There is NOT much of a malaria risk in Tunisia, but pack your bug spray.
Sun Please remember that the sun is frequently your biggest enemy, we would recommend frequent application of a high (factor 30 or better) sun screen. It is usually cheaper in your local super market than at the holiday destination.
Be careful what and where you eat and drink (remember the ice cubes too); diarrhoea is a common complaint from uncautious travellers. The tap water in the high-end Tunis-Carthage-Marsa area seems to be safe (2006).

Vaccinations

Always check with your doctor 8-4 weeks before traveling (The 8-4 weeks is important, as some vaccinations take weeks to become effective, and with Polio you can be contagious for a while too):

Yellow fever is required for all travelers arriving from a yellow-fever-infected area in Africa or the Americas.
Hepatitis A is usually recommended Two Havrix injections, given 6 months apart, provide 10 years of Hep A protection
Typhoid
Polio
Hepatitis B - Highly recommended if likely to have intimate contact with locals or if visiting for more than 6 months.

Respect

Tunisia is a Muslim country, and dress code is important, particularly for females. Whilst a lot of skin (even topless) is tolerated on beaches and within hotel complexes, a modest amount of exposed skin may be frowned upon outside these areas.

Be warned that the Tunisian government discourages critical discussion of local politics, particularly in public forums.

Contact

Telephone

Public telephones are available in all towns and cities and in most villages under either the name of Publitel or Taxiphone - in cities simply look around - there is at least one on every street. International calls tend to be quite expensive (DT 1,000/minute to call anywhere in the EU). There are two mobile GSM operators, private Tunisiana[8] and state-owned Tunisie Telecom[9], both offering wide mobile coverage (including some oasis in the Sahara). Rates tend to be quite low for domestic calls, but very high for international cals (around DT 1,500/minute). Ask for a carte prépayée for a prepaid SIM card.

Internet

Public internet access is available in many cities and towns, usually using the Publinet logo. Since home internet access is quite expensive in Tunisia, many locals will use these, so they are very widespread, especially in the non-touristic areas of cities. Look for a large purple sign with the Publinet logo. Access is usually 0.8DT/hour, and speeds tend to be quite low (512kbps is the norm in Sousse and 2048 in Tunis). Note that FTP and peer-to-peer access is not available anywhere in Tunisia, and access to certain web sites, particularly those that engage Tunisian political issues, is restricted by the government.

Post

La Poste Tunisienne [10]is quite efficient and fast. Post restante is offered in certain (bigger) offices. A stamp for international letters costs DT 0,600.

Rapide Post is the Poste's service for sending mail and packages quickly. Once a Rapide Post package enters the US it is handled by FedEx. It is the best and most secure way to send things in Tunisia.

Tourism

Vacationing in Tunisia

There are several ways to enjoy your vacation in Tunisia, including spending your vacation on the gorgeous Mediterranean beaches, or planning a circuit of Tunisia. Numerous charter flight companies can arrange flight and hotel, many that waiver a visa to enter. There are also some agencies that have ongoing tours for groups and private travelers.

Tourism is pretty well developed in Tunisia, although not at par with other countries like Egypt and perhaps even Morocco. Hotel star ratings are not at par with European and US standards-- a 4 star hotel is the equivalent of a 3 star.

Travel Agencies

Hedfi Consulting Partners' Authentic Tunisia offers group tours, custom trips, circuits for specialized groups, and seminars and meetings for businesses. They work one-on-one with our clients to arrange the perfect trip in Tunisia. They specialize only in Tunisia, being the leading American Tunisia Experts.

TOGO

2009-05-28T06:51:00.001-07:00

Overview

Togo seems to be squashed in between neighbouring Ghana, Burkina Faso and Benin. Yet this tiny sliver of a country manages to squeeze in dense forests, savannah, coastal lagoons, long sandy beaches and swampy plains.

Despite its uncertain political situation, the country boasts captivating wonders and offers a nice succession of landscapes.

The capital city Lomé lies on the Gulf of Benin and is the only capital in the world situated right next to a border. Modern hotels line the beach, while the city's past can be uncovered among the pockets of colonial architecture and its traditions discovered in the famous fetish market, which sells traditional remedies and carved figures to ward off evil.

Togo's national parks are home to buffaloes, elephants and antelope, as well as numerous tropical bird species. Coffee and cocoa farms, waterfalls and palm plantations characterise the country's plateau, which rises behind the coast. In northeastern Togo, the traditional mud-tower settlements of the Batammariba in the Koutammakou landscape gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004.

Togo is a narrow country in West Africa, sandwiched between Ghana on the west and Benin on the east, with a small border with Burkina Faso to the north, and a 56km coastline on the Atlantic Ocean to the south.

Regions

De La Kara
Des Plateaux
Des Savanes
Centrale
Maritime

Cities

Understand

French Togoland became Togo in 1960. General Gnassingbe Eyadema, installed as military ruler in 1967, is Africa's longest-serving head of state. Despite the façade of multiparty elections instituted in the early 1990s, the government continues to be dominated by President Eyadema, whose Rally of the Togolese People (RPT) party has maintained power almost continually since 1967. In addition, Togo has come under fire from international organizations for human rights abuses and is plagued by political unrest. Most bilateral and multilateral aid to Togo remains frozen.

Climate

Tropical; hot, humid in south; semiarid in north. In the south the climate is 23 degrees celsius to 32 degrees celsius (75 degrees fahrenheit to 90 degrees fahrenheit). In the north the climate is 18 degrees celsius to 38 degrees celsius (65 degrees fahrenheit to 100 degrees fahrenheit).

Landscape

Highly variable stretching from north to south. Gently rolling savanna in north; central hills; southern plateau; low coastal plain with extensive lagoons and marshes.

Get in

It is cheaper to buy the Togo visa at the border rather than going through an internet site. Online, however will probably be less of a hassle so that you do not need to renew your week-long initial visa or have to pay 30,000 CFA extra.

By plane

Several airlines offer regular flights to Lome. But flying directly to Togo is often more expensive than flying to Accra in neighboring Ghana. Comfortable, air-conditioned, and reasonably priced busses leave Accra for the border at Aflao. At Aflao, travellers must walk across the border into Lome and find their own transport inside Togo.

By train

There are tracks but no trains are available!

By car

There are bush taxis everywhere. These are basically four door cars, with four people in the back, and two sharing the front. From either Accra or Benin you can take bush taxis for under $5 to Lomé. From there, you can take them out to more rural areas. You can also offer to pay for the entire car, so that you're not cramped. For this, calculate the price of six people, and then bargain down from there, as it saves the driver time having to wait for the car to fill before he can leave.

By boat

The boat usually helps you get in or out of Togo.

Get around

A zemidjan (motorcycle taxi) will cost 150-200 CFA to get you around. You can't tell who they taxi drivers are--they will honk or hiss at you as they drive by. Negotiate before getting on the bike. A cab will usually cost about 500CFA for a one-way short trip if you are not willing to share the cab.

Buy

Costs

2,000 CFA (francs) can get 2 or 3 people a taxi ride in Lome of about 20km. A fist-size ebony elephant or other carving costs about 3,000 CFA. 100 CFA is an acceptable payment for another kid to do your homework. A man can have a shirt made for less than $10. (At the time I travelled, 1,000 CFA= $2 USD). A necklace costs about $5.

Eat

Akume

Corn pounded into flour and then put with water. This dish is usually served with sauces.

Fufu

White yams pounded into a material somewhat like mashed potatoes. Like akume, the dish usually comes with sauces.

Drink

Lemonade and Bissap juice are the most popular drinks. Plus, there are many bars almost around all corners where you will be able to have a beer. Kodjoviakope is a popular bar area, with a nice bar/restaurant at Hotel Bellevue (behind the German Embassy), and then quite a few bars just up the street. Further downtown, there is a live jazz bar that is very popular with expats.

There are also bars all along the beach, which are fine during the day. At night be careful of robbers, however.

Hotels. Hotel Bellevue has wireless internet access, and a lovely atmosphere with a waterfall running into a small swimming pool. The food is delicious, and it's a pleasant nice place to stay. The owners are French, and very welcoming. There is also a small hotel called Hotel Cote Sud, run by an older French man. The prices there are lower, and the food is excellent.

Entertainment

Sports, especially football is the main entertaining activity in Togo. You can watch the football (soccer) league games played in the weekends (check listings). Apart from football, there are several night clubs that can keep you awake at night, and the capital is full of them; the Chess BSBG is among the most popular. TV programs are not the best in the world, with movies and sitcoms that have been played for years. Plus, the beach offers another type of fun. Many activities and parties are organized there, with people coming from all over Lome to enjoy the beautiful weather in the weekends. Despite those great thing at the beach, you really have to choose a good spot, to avoid stepping or sitting on the unwanted.

Stay safe

Stay away from the beach at night. Tourists have been robbed during the daytime as well. Don't wander around drunk after dark. Keep your street smarts and you should be fine. Also don't let any child wander alone. Don't leave any money around the place you are staying at also. You want to stay as safe as possible!

Stay healthy

Drink bottled water such as Volta or sachets of "Pure Water". Bissop juice is also fairly safe as it is boiled, and avoid the lemonade "citron" despite its delicious aspect. Stay away from road-side meals if possible. People relieve themselves in the streets in Lome, so be aware of that.

Respect

Greetings are a little more elaborate in Togo. Say hello to everyone when coming and going. Handshakes are key. Also maybe if you try to get to know them you will fit in. Make sure you make yourself feel like you are at home. Don't make it too homey, though, because you don't want to get on their bad side.

Contact

Lome has Internet cafes, and they are cheap. You buy time by the hour (something like a couple dollars an hour), but most of the cafes feature very slow computers and internet connection speeds. You can buy calling cards along the street. It is, however, much cheaper for people in the United States to call with their calling cards to a Togo cell phone.

TANZANIA

2009-05-28T06:48:00.000-07:00

Overview

With highlights like Kilimanjaro, the Serengeti, the Ngorongoro Crater and Zanzibar, Tanzania is definitely a country to be recognised both in terms of wildlife and beauty. For many, it's the ultimate safari destination, and with national parks and game reserves covering some 33,660 sq km (13,000 sq miles) or 28% of the country, Tanzania has more land devoted to wildlife than anywhere else in the world.

The Serengeti National Park is a plain-dwellers' stronghold of 14,763 sq km (5,678 sq miles), claimed to be one of the best places to watch game in Africa. The Selous Game Reserve is larger than Switzerland and covers one-sixth of Tanzania's land surface.

Tanzania's most famous attraction, Mount Kilimanjaro, at 5,895m (19,341ft), is Africa's highest mountain and the only free-standing mountain in the world that can simply be walked up.

The former capital city and major port Dar es Salaam is within striking distance of Zanzibar - a beautiful island jewel in the Indian Ocean with a fascinating spice and slaving legacy and palm-backed beaches.

In addition to its beautiful landscape, Tanzania has approximately 120 ethnic groups and Tanzanians value their country's multicultural heritage. The tall red-robed Masai are the best known of Tanzania's peoples, inhabiting the northern regions of the country. Visits to their villages are often a highlight of safari itineraries.

Zanzibar, Pemba, Mafia and the entire Tanzanian coast is home to the Swahili people, a vibrant mix of Arab, Indian and Bantu origins. A predominantly Islamic region, old mosques and coral palaces scatter the area. Swahili culture centres on the dhow, a wooden sailing boat powered by the seasonal wind.

The United Republic of Tanzania became independent in 1961 and merged with Zanzibar in 1964. It has generally stood out as a stable democracy in a region that has witnessed too many vicious civil conflicts.

Whether you enjoy the tranquillity of the Swahili coast, game watching in the magnificent parks or the challenge of ascending Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania has it all.

Tanzania [1] is the largest country in East Africa, bordered by Kenya and Uganda to the north; Rwanda, Burundi, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west, and Zambia, Malawi, and Mozambique to the south.

Understand

Geography

A large central plateau makes up most of the mainland, at between 900 m and 1800 m. The mountain ranges of the Eastern Arc and the Southern and Northern Highlands cut across the country to form part of the Great Rift Valley.

A land of geographical extremes, Tanzania houses the highest peak (Mount Kilimanjaro), the lowest point (the lake bed of Lake Tanganyika), and a portion of the largest lake (Lake Victoria, shared with Uganda and Kenya) on the African continent.

Climate

Tanzania's weather varies from humid and hot in low lying areas, such as Dar es Salaam, to hot during the day and cool at night in Arusha. There are no discernible seasons, such as winter and summer -- only the dry and wet seasons. Tanzania has two rainy seasons: The short rains from late-October to late-December, a.k.a. the Mango Rains, and the long rains from March to May.

Climate	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High(°C)	35	35	34	30	30	28	27	27	28	30	34	35

Low(°C)	25	25	23	21	21	20	18	18	21	24	25	25

Note: Many popular resorts and tourist attractions on Zanzibar and Mafia Island Marine Park close during the long rains season, and many trails in the national parks are impassable during this period. For that reason, in most cases tours are restricted to the main roads in the parks. Travelers should plan their trip accordingly.

During the dry season, temperatures can easily soar to above 35°C in Dar. You should seek shelter from the sun during the midday heat and use copious amounts of sunblock, SPF 30+.

Best times to visit are:

June to August: This is the tail-end of the long rainy season and the weather is at its best at this time of year -- bearable during the day and cool in the evening. However, this is not necessarily the best time of year for safaris, as water is plentiful in the parks and animals are not forced to congregate in a few locations to rehydrate, as they do in the middle of the dry season right after Christmas.
January to February: This is the best time to visit the Serengeti. It is usually at this time that huge herds of Wildebeest, Zebra and Buffalo migrate to better grazing areas. At this period you could observe some of the 1.5 million Wildebeest that inhabit the Serengeti undertake their epic journey. Be advised this is most likely the hottest time of year in Tanzania, when even the locals complain about the heat. You've been warned!

Regions

Central Tanzania
a plateau with grasslands

Northeast Tanzania
the mountainous location of Kilimanjaro

Northwest Tanzania
Africa's "great lakes" and the Serengeti

Pembwe and the Southeast
the capital and the hot, humid shoreline

Southern Highlands
Ruaha National Park, volcanic mountains, crater lakes, natural attractions, waterfalls, beautiful Matema Beach

Zanzibar
a coastal island in the Indian Ocean

Cities

Other destinations

Arusha National Park
Mikumi National Park
Mount Kilimanjaro - Africa's highest peak and the world's highest freestanding mountain. You can climb it with the help of a guide.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area - includes the Ngorongoro Crater and the Olduvai Gorge
Ruaha National Park
Serengeti National Park
Tarangire National Park

Get in

Visa

No visa is required for stays of less than 3 months for citizens of Namibia, Romania, Rwanda, Hong Kong and all commonwealth member states (except the United kingdom, Canada, Bangladesh, New Zealand, Nigeria, India, & South Africa). A Tourist Visa will set you back US$50 or US$100 for a six-month single entry and a six-month double entry visa, respectively. The visa can be obtained upon landing in Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro and ports of entry. Be advised that the wait can be especially long if your flight arrives at the same time with other international flights. Visas are valid for the duration from the date of issuance. However, obtaining a visa before arrival is HIGHLY recommended. Holders of a US passport can only obtain a US$100 multiple-entry visa. For travelers departing from the U.S., paying a US$20 fee for rush service, which takes three working days, is also an option to be considered. The website of Tanzania Embassy in the U.S. should be checked for current and complete requirements, [2]. Visas may also be obtained from any of Tanzania's diplomatic mission abroad.

By plane

There are two major airports; one in Dar es Salaam, Julius Nyerere International Airport - (IATA:DAR) (formerly known as Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere International Airport and Dar es Salaam International Airport), and one in Kilimanjaro, Kilimanjaro International Airport - (IATA:JRO) [3], which is halfway between Arusha and Moshi.

Tanzania is served Internationally from

Europe by

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines [4] (Amsterdam), +255 22 213 9790 (Dar) & +255 27 223 8355 (Arusha). Daily flights with stopover in Kilimanjaro.
British Airways [5] (London-Heathrow), +255 22 211 3820. Flights on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday.
Swiss International Air Lines [6] (Zurich), +255 22 211 8870. 5 flights a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday) with a stopover in Nairobi, Kenya.

Middle East and Asia by

Emirates [7] (Dubai), +255 22 211 6100. Daily flights.
Qatar Airways [8] (Doha), +255 22 284 2675, 1019, Julius Nyerere International Airport, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Daily flights.
Air India [9] (Mumbai), +255 22 215 2642. Flights on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Africa by

South African Airways [10] (Johannesburg), +255 22 211 7044. Twice daily flights.
Ethiopian Airlines [11] (Addis Ababa), +255 22 211 7063. Daily flights (except for Monday) with a stopover in Kilimanjaro.
Kenya Airways (Nairobi) [12], +255 22 211 9376 (Dar) & +255 24 223 8355 (Zanzibar). Three daily flights with some stopping in Kilimanjaro.
Carriers originating from Malawi, Mozambique and Zimbabwe also maintain regular flights to Dar es Salaam.

And Domestically by

Air Tanzania [13], +255 22 211 8411, bookings@airtanzania.com.
Precision Air [14], +255 22 212 1718, Along Nyerere/Pugu Road, P.O Box 70770, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, info@precisionairtz.com or pwreservations@precisionairtz.com also flights to/from Kenya.
Coastal Aviation [15], +255 22 211 7959, P. O. Box 3052, 107 Upanga Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, safari@coastal.cc.
ZanAir [16], +255 24 223 3670, P.O.Box 2113, Zanzibar, Tanzania, reservations@zanair.com.
Regional Air [17] provides almost daily service to all major cities, including Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Mwanza, Mbeya, Zanzibar, and most national parks.

Warning: Domestic flights are often late but generally reliable.

By train

The Tanzania - Zambia train service, known as TAZARA [18], operates trains twice a week between New Kapiri Mposhi, Zambia, and Dar es Salaam, leaving from Dar es Salaam on Tuesdays and Fridays.

A domestic railroad network links the country's major cities, including Kigoma, Mwanza, Dodoma, Tabora, and Dar es Salaam. The domestic train service is usually reliable, and ticket prices are affordable. Ticket prices differ, however, according to 'class', typically first, second, and third. First and second classes offer cabins with two and four beds, respectively. Third class is open seating. Hot meals and beverages are usually available from the dining car. It is not uncommon for the train kitchen to purchase fresh produce at many of the stopping points along the way. It is also possible to purchase fruit and snacks directly from local vendors who frequent the many train stations on each of Tanzania's many train routes.

By car

Warning: It's not advised to drive in Tanzania, or throughout most of Africa, unless you have already experienced the driving conditions in developing countries. Nonetheless, here is some useful information for those thinking to undertake the challenge.

Drive on the left side of the road

Tanzanians drive on the left (like in the UK, India, Australia, Japan, and other countries), as opposed to driving on the right, like in North America and most European countries. Experienced drivers from "right-hand drive" countries will need about half a day of driving around before adjusting to the change. Although the gear shift, windshield wipers and turn signal activators are reversed, luckily, the pedals are not. Just follow the traffic. However, even with some practice, you should always be vigilant, as you could easily find yourself disoriented, which could put you at risk of a head-on collision or hitting a pedestrian, if you are used to driving on the opposite side of the road.

Choice of vehicle

If you're hiring a car when you get here, your best option is a 4x4 sport utility vehicle with good road clearance, especially if you plan on going on safari in any of the national parks. Look for the Land Cruiser, Hilux Surf (4Runner), and Range Rover vehicles. Avoid mini-SUVs, such as the Toyota RAV4 and Honda CRV, because they can't always negotiate the poor road conditions in most of Tanzania's national parks. Another issue is 4-wheel drive options. Vehicles with always-on 4x4 are not the best choice for off-road driving. These vehicles were designed for driving in the snow on paved roads or through small mud holes. What you encounter in national parks in Tanzania is quite different and demands a proper 4-wheel drive vehicle capable of traversing large mud holes and sandy roads. Even then, you may still get stuck.

Navigation

Nelles Maps of Tanzania, Rwanda & Burundi [19] is the best map. They've taken the time to locate the smallest of villages along the routes, which is great for navigating places where landmarks are scarce.

There are markers and white concrete pillions along the main roads. They identify the next major city or town along the route and how many kilometers remain.

Driving in the city

This only applies to Dar es Salaam, since all other cities and towns are relatively small and easy to get around in. The city center is extremely congested from 9AM-6PM, Monday to Friday. There are few traffic lights, and the streets are very narrow. It's a dog-eat-dog kind of place, so offensive driving skills are a must, as no one will let you pass if you just sit and wait at stops signs. Streets are crowded with parked and moving cars, SUVs, lorries, scooters, and very muscular men pulling insanely overloaded carts. People can spend hours stuck in traffic jams, especially around Kariakoo Market.

There are a few roundabouts in downtown, which the locals call "keeplefties" because they thought that the sign advising drivers to "Keep Left" when entering the roundabouts named this fascinating Mzungu invention. Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white" foreigners. It is not derogatory, and it's more along the lines of calling a white person a Caucasian.

When parking on the street in Dar, find a spot to park, then lock your doors and leave. When you return, a parking attendant wearing a yellow fluorescent vest will approach you for payment. The fee is 300 Tsh for two hours. The attendant should either hand you a ticket, or the ticked will already be on your windshield. DO NOT leave without paying if there is a ticket on your windshield. The attendant will most likely be forced to make up for the missing money, as he probably earns, at best, a mere 3000 Tsh a day.

Note: Carjacking is uncommon but opening doors or jumping through open windows to steal valuables is not. Keep your windows closed and the doors locked. When stopped at traffic lights or parked on unattended locations, thieves have been known to steal mirrors, paneling, spare tires, and anything that is not either engraved with the license plate number of bolted into the vehicle's body. Choose your parking spots carefully and don't leave valuables in plain sight. You can either offer the parking attendant a small tip to watch your vehicle, 500 to 1000 Tsh, or find a secured parking lot, especially if you are leaving your vehicle overnight.

Routes

The two main roads are the "Dar es Salaam to Mbeya" road (A7/A17), which takes you to the Southern Highlands through the towns of Morogoro, Iringa, and Mikumi National Park, and near the Selous and Ruhaha National Parks. The other road is the "Dar to Arusha and the Serengeti" road (B1), which takes you to the Northern Circuit by the towns of Tanga and Moshi, and Mount Kilimanjaro, Saadani, Tanrangire, Ngorongoro and Serengeti National Parks.

Dangers and annoyances

Tanzanians drive very fast and won't hesitate to overtake in a blind curve. Also, most commercial vehicles are poorly maintained and overloaded, and you'll see many of them broken-down along the main highways. NEVER assume their brakes are working or that the drivers have fully thought through the dangerous maneuver they are undertaking.

Most roads in Tanzania are poorly maintained and littered with potholes and dangerous grooves formed by overloaded transport vehicles. All main roads cut through towns and villages, and often traffic calming tools (a.k.a. speed or road humps) ensure vehicles reduce their speed when passing through. Unfortunately, few are clearly marked while most are hard to see until you are right upon them, and if you are coming too fast, you could be thrown off the road. SLOW DOWN when entering any town, or you might not be able to avoid these and other hazards. This defensive driving attitude is also prudent because animals and children often bolt out into the street.

Note: If you are involved in an accident with a pedestrian, drive to the nearest police station to advise them. DO NOT exit your vehicle and attempt to resolve the situation, even if you are sure it was not your fault. Tanzanians are some of the nicest people you will ever meet in Africa, but they have been known to take matters into their own hands. This is largely due to their mistrust of the police and the belief that anyone with money, e.g. rich foreigners, can buy their way out of a problem.

If you encounter a convoy of government vehicles, move out of the way. They have priority, although this is debatable, and will not hesitate to run you off the road if you don't give way. You could also be fined by the police for your failure to give way.

FYI: In Tanzania, you can determine vehicle registration by the license plate colours. Yellow plates, starting with "T" and followed by three numbers, are privately owned vehicles. Official Tanzanian government plates are also yellow, but they display only letters and usually start with "S" (the fewer the letters, the higher up in the food chain the owner is). Green plates are diplomatic; Red are international development agencies; Blue are UN and similar organizations; White are taxis and buses, and Black are the military and the police. This coding does not apply in Zanzibar and Pemba.

Passing Etiquette

Drivers following you will activate their right turn signal light to indicate they wish to pass you. If the road is clear, activate your left turn signal; if not, activate your right turn signal. Look for this when attempting to pass.

What to bring

- A large jerry can (20 liters) with emergency fuel. (FYI - Don’t enter a national park without a full tank of gas.)
- A shovel, a machete ("panga" in Swahili), and tow rope
- Good road maps
- First-aid kit
- Drinking water, at least 5 liters, and non-perishable emergency food supplies.

By bus

The bus is a great way to get into Tanzania. Fly to a place like Nairobi, then you can catch a bus down to Arusha -- a great base for Mount Meru and Ngorongoro Crater. Also, you should not forget the south central part of Tanzania, away from tourist hawkers. Roads in Tanzania aren't in good condition; there are no highways, and there are very few multiple lane segments along main roads. Buses slow down or stop in most villages because of traffic, police, and speed calming tools. For your reference, the trip from Dar to Iringa takes at least 6 hours in a private vehicle. It's mostly a two-lane road, recently rebuilt by the Chinese, so it's in good condition for the most part.

Westbound and northbound buses leaving from Dar ply the same road (A7) until you get to Chalinze, which is about halfway, less than two hours, between Dar and Morogoro.

If you are going to Arusha, the bus will veer north on the A17. Other notable destinations along this route are Saandani National Park, Pangani, Tanga, Lushoto, Kilimanjaro, and Moshi. From Arusha, you can also take a bus to Mwanza and Kigoma, but once you've past the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, the roads are in extremely poor condition, and you are in for a bumpy ride.

If you continue on past Chalinze you'll pass by Morogoro (also the turn off for Dodoma), the entry point into the Selous Game Reserve, Mikumi National Park, the old main gate to Udzungwa Mountains Parks, and Iringa, which is the turn off for Ruaha National Park.

Iringa is the place to explore the southern circuit, with a new campsite at the Msosa gate to the Uduzungwas (the Iringa side of the park) and the gateway to Ruaha (possibly Tanzania's best park). It is a great place to stay for a few days.

After Iringa, you'll either go west, to Mbeya, or south, to Songea. Head to Mbeya if you want to either visit Lake Tanganyika, enter into Malawi, or head north to Kigoma. North of Mbeya, the roads aren't sealed, so it will be a long and very unpleasant trip. If you want to see Lake Nyasa (a.k.a. Lake Malawi), take the bus to Songea. Although you are within a stone's throw of Mozambique, there are no official entry points into Mozambique.

Finally, if you're headed south of Dar, then you'll take the B2. This is the main route to the Selous and the Rufiji River. Along the way, you can also stop in Kilwa, Lindi, and, finally, Mtwara. The road isn't sealed the whole way, so, again, bring on a cushion.

Outside Dar, roads between other cities and villages are in very poor condition, although they are slowly being improved. For instance, traveling from Arusha to Dodoma is slow. It can be faster to return to Chalinze and then board a bus to Dodoma. This is pretty much the case for any travel between cities that are not located along the road to Dar.

The border town of Namanga is a hectic outpost that epitomizes much of Africa. The bus even waits here for you to cross the border. You can even get off on the Kenyan side, walk across the border, and get on the bus again on the Tanzanian side.

From Dar by bus it is also possible to travel to Malawi, Uganda, and Rwanda.

Useful information on the Dar Es Salaam bus stand ("Ubungo") and some specific bus lines can be found in the Dar_es_Salaam article.

Bus Lines

See specific cities for more information about the bus lines that serve them.

Tawfiq Buses connect Mombasa with Tanga and Dar in Tanzania.

Scandinavia services many cities, including Lusaka, Zambia.

Royal Coach travels to Arusha, and is one of the nicest buses available.

Get around

The bus is the most common way to travel around in Tanzania. Most buses have a simple design, and the roads are poor, although 1st class air-con buses are available on the Dar-Moshi-Arusha route. Nearly all buses go in and out of Dar es Salaam. The main bus station in Dar (where all buses go), Ubungo, is 8 km west of the city center. A number of the better "intercity buses" provide you with complimentary drinks and biscuits. Scandinavian Express is a good choice if you want to travel by bus, as their routes cover much of the country, although they have fallen on hard times of late. They operate their own terminal in downtown Dar es Salaam.

In Dar, shared taxis, called Dalla-Dallas, can be taken cheaply to most places within a city.

Private taxis are also a convenient choice, but be sure to negotiate the price before you using them. Fellow travelers might be able to offer advice about a reasonable fare. Some places (e.g. Dar Es Salaam Airport) have a strong taxi cartel and post fixed prices.

If you can afford it, flying around Tanzania is faster and safer. See "By plane" in the "Get In" section above. Even the busiest roads are in poor condition, and bus drivers are not known for their patience or great driving skills. Road accidents claim more lives in Tanzania than any other cause of death.

Do

There are loads of National Parks for those wanting to watch Tanzania's wildlife. You can gain entry for around $100 US and benefit from a tour (and perhaps a night's accommodation). The better parks, though packed with tourists, are found in the north of the country. Ruaha National Park is the best in the south (locals actually say this is the best park, especially if you want to see wild animals as opposed to semi-tame ones in the northern parks). Don't just be sucked into the tourist circuit in the north; the south offers great parks and towns (base yourself out of Iringa), and you will feel less of a tourist and more of a guest if you travel this way.

Scuba diving in and around Pemba and Zanzibar is another good experience.

You can also visit numerous historical Slave Trade sites, which could make for an interesting, if a little depressing, excursion.

Beaches: Did you know that Tanzania has some of the best, most unspoiled beaches in the world? They are stunning, with their white sand, palm trees, and cool Indian Ocean water!

Tanzania has two of the best Stone Age sites in the world: Isimilia Gorge (near Iringa) and the earliest known examples of human art among the rock paintings, near Kolo, north of Dodoma -- some of which are reckoned to be around 30,000 years old.

See

Tanzania is a country with great national parks, where you can see some of the finest African flora and fauna. Tanzania is home to several national parks and game reserves. Safaris in Tanzania can be put into two categories, the Northern Circuit (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Manyara and Tarangire) and the Southern Circuit (Selous, Mikumi and Ruaha). This is certainly an oversimplification and does not include other interesting but harder to reach parks such as Katavi and Gombe, just to name two. For tourist, the two first groupings are more accessible as several tour companies offer a variety a packages for these.

Price

The cost of a safari can range from the basics (fly-tents, self-catering and guides with vehicles) to smaller parks like Manyara and Tarangire, to luxury lodges and tented camps in the Serengeti which can cost anywhere from US$250 to US$1,500 per person per night. You can use your own vehicle, provided it's a 4x4 with adequate clearance. There is a benefit to hiring a guide and a vehicle as safari vehicles are equipped with open rooftops which provide a much better vantage point for animal viewing. Also, many park will require that you hire a certified guide before you enter the park, even if you're using your own vehicle. Guides can cost around US$35 a day plus tip. Guides are good to have since they know the park and can help you locate some of the more sought after animals such as lions, leopards, rhinos, cheetahs and hyenas.

Park fees for Manyara and Tarangire are as of July 2008 US$80 per vehicle. For Ngorongoro there is a US$200 vehicle fee as well as a $50 per person park fee. For the Serengeti it's US$50 per person with no vehicle fee. These fees are valid for 24 hours. If you arrive in the afternoon, you can return in the morning the next day and not pay again.

Some of the more popular safari companies are Ranger tours and Leopards tours. Serena and Sopa are popular lodging spots and have facilities throughout the Northern Circuit. However, don't discount using smaller tours and lesser known lodging facilities which are just as good if not better than the larger tours and lodges.

Wildlife Viewing:

Serengeti National Park, made famous by numerous Discovery Channel specials, hosts a wide range of wildlife, including lions, cheetahs, leopards, hippopotamuses, elephants, zebra, buffalo, water buck, crocodiles, gazelle, warthogs, and wildebeest. One major attraction is the wildebeest migration, which occurs continuously between the Serengeti and Masai Mara (Kenya). Park fees are $50/person/day as of July 2008, and a guide with a 4-wheel drive vehicle is required. If the migration is your main purpose for visiting the Serengeti, you should advise your tour company as this may require travel much further afield and could be more costly.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area also hosts an abundance of wildlife, particularly in the Ngorongoro crater. Formed by the same volcanic activity that generated Kilimanjaro and the Great Rift Valley, Ngorongoro consists of the highlands around the crater (rich in elephants) and the crater itself (similar animals to Serengeti, but at higher densities and with a small population of black rhino). Park fees are $50/day/person as of July 2007, plus $200 per vehicle for a six-hour game drive in the crater.

Ruaha National Park and Selous Game Reserve are far less popular but very enjoyable. You won't find quite the volume of wildlife that you would in the Serengeti but, if you're looking for a destination with fewer tourists and a greater range of wildlife, these parks are for you. Additionally, Selous is the only other place besides Ngorongoro where you may see a rhino. You can also visit the Uduzungwa Mountains Park for a truly wilderness hike through unspoiled and spectacular scenery. There are few places left in the world like this one.

Tarangire National Park is in the northern circuit of Tanzania and was named after the Tarangire river flowing within the park. The park area is approximately 2,600 sq km. Similar to Serengeti, the park has a high concentrations of wildlife during the dry seasons as well as the only safari destinations in Tanzania with the highest number of elephants. Also, over 570 bird species have been identified, and the place is surely a birdwatchers' paradise. Safari accommodation is available in quality safari lodges and campsites.

*When visiting wildlife parks be sure to stay as close to the viewing areas (center of the parks) as possible and leave as soon as you can in the morning as animals are typically most active soon after sunrise.

Islands:

Zanzibar is an island off the coast of Tanzania; it includes both Zanzibar and Pemba. Zanzibar has beautiful beaches and a historical Stone Town. Zanzibar is great for scuba diving, snorkeling, and swimming with dolphins. Other attractions include spice tours and the Jozani Forest, which shelters a small population of red Colobus monkeys.

Mafia Island Marine Park is south of Zanzibar and boasts some fantastic scuba diving and snorkeling. You may also get to swim with whale sharks, as this is one of the few areas in the world where they congregate annually.

Mountains:

Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa and one of the highest freestanding mountains in the world. Many people travel to Tanzania just to climb this mountain. You can either organize your trek up the mountain from your home country through a travel agency, but you'll pay a lot more for this convenience, or, if you've got a bit of time, hop on plane and save some money by organizing it in Arusha or in Dar. Be advised that there are as many incompetent and dishonest trek organizers as there are good ones. Ask around to make sure your guide will deliver on his promises. July 2008 update: good prices and excellent service can be found by going through a reputable operator on the Internet. Zara Tours and Good Earth are known-reliable companies. Checking with some of the many, many people on the streets of Arusha and Moshi who try to sell Kili treks and safaris showed that the Zara prices were nearly the same as the locals but with much better service. It is obvious on the mountain and on safari which companies are a cut above the others--tents, camps, and food are better on the mountain, and jeeps are higher quality on safari if you go with a better company.

Talk

Kiswahili or Swahili (official); Kiunguja (name for Swahili in Zanzibar); English (official, the primary language of commerce, administration, and higher education); Arabic (widely spoken in Zanzibar), plus many local languages. Tanzanians speak Kiswahili and, to a much more limited extent than in Kenya, English. (As elsewhere, English is more commonly spoken in larger cities and tourist destinations.)

Most Tanzanians learn their local tribal language first. Then, in primary school, they learn Kiswahili. When they go to secondary school, they are taught English.

Time of Day

This is where a little knowledge of Kiswahili can cause some inconveniences. Tanzanians don't function on the same time as Westerners. This doesn't mean Africa time, which is the notion that appointments are flexible and people can arrive when they please. For Tanzanians, it's illogical that the day would start in the middle of the night. Since sunrise and sunset happen pretty much at the same time all year round, 6AM and 6PM, the day starts at 6AM which is 0 hour. So when telling time in Kiswahili, Tanzanians always subtracted 6 hours for western time. 11AM is 5AM to a Tanzanian. To avoid any confusion, a Tanzanian will tell time in English if they want to use the western standard and in Kiswahili if they use local standard. If you want to practice your Kiswahili, just keep this in mind if you discuss appointment times with a Tanzanian. If you say Saa kumi na moja asabuhi (11AM), instead of Saa tano asabuhi (5AM), you'll end up waiting for 6 hours for the person to arrive, that's if they are on time!

Buy

Currency

Money

The currency of Tanzania is known as the Tanzanian Shilling (TSH, /=). There are 5 notes and 6 coins:

Notes - 10000 (Red); 5000 (Violet); 2000 (Brown); 1000 (Blue), and 500 (Green) denominations.
Coins - 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 denominations.

Notes and coins vary in size and color. In descending size order, 10000 is the largest note, and 500 is the smallest.

In December 2008, one US dollar was worth about 1315 Tsh. [20] Note that Tanzanian currency exchangers usually have a different exchange rate for different US$ denominations, larger and newer bills having a better exchange rate than older and smaller bills. The difference in exchange rate between $1/$5 bills and $50/$100 bills may exceed ten percent. Older US $100 notes are no longer accepted in Tanzania, and any note older than 2003 will most likely be refused everywhere. Also, it's best to avoid attempting to exchange notes with pen marks or any writing on them. Finally, be advised that if you withdraw a large amount of money, in the range of $400 US, you'll have to carry over 40 notes around!

The 10000 and 5000 notes can be difficult to break when shopping in small shops, a.k.a. dukas. In Tanzania, it's usually the customer's responsibility to provide exact change. But if they do agree to provide change, you could be left with several 1000 and 500 notes of very poor quality. However, you won't have such problems in the large hotels and restaurants catering to foreigners.

In general, stores, restaurants, and hotels in Tanzania expect payment in Tsh. Exceptions include payment for travel visas, entry fees to national parks (which must be paid in US dollars by non-residents), and payments for safaris and Kilimanjaro treks, which are generally priced in US dollars (though payment will be also accepted in other currencies). On Zanzibar, prices are generally in US dollars (including the ferry fare from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar), and non-residents are required to pay for hotels with foreign currency (although the hotel will change Tsh for you).

Most hotels will exchange US dollars, Euros and British Pounds for Tanzanian Shillings. Other currencies, such as Canadian or Australian dollars, may be accepted but at rates far below the going rate. ATMs are mostly located in the city center and on the Msasani Peninsula. For those wishing to withdraw money from bank accounts back home, in general, Barclay's, Standard Charter, CRDB and NBC ATMs work with PLUS and Cirrus compatible cards. Additionally, if you have a PIN code for your credit card, almost all Tanzanian banks with ATMs will allow cash advances on credit cards like Visa, Mastercard, and American Express. If the ATM reports your home balance in TSh, you may be pleasantly surprised to find that you're a "shillionaire".

Traveler's Checks have become virtually impossible to cash in almost all banks in Tanzania. For some odd reason, banks will only accept those TCs they have issued. Only hotels will accept checks from their guests, but at a far lesser rate than hard currency -- usually at the same rate they give for US$1/$5 notes. Since ATMs are much more prevalent, using credit cards and withdrawals from your personal accounts is much easier and less time consuming.

Credit Cards can only be used in large hotels, resorts, and with certain travel agents. In short, Tanzania is still a cash society.

FYI: In North America, many banks and financial institutions permit PINs as long as 6 digits for ATM/credit cards. However, in the rest of the world ATMs are programmed to only accept 4-digit PINs. If you have a 5- or 6-digit PIN, you should change it to a 4-digit PIN before you travel.

Shopping

There are many markets in tourist cities that sell standard "African" goods. Beaded jewelry, carved soapstone, and Masai blankets make interesting gifts. Be aware that most "ebony" wood is fake (shoe polish) - the exception being in the far south-east of the country, where the Makonde tribe of Tanzania and Northern Mozambique create masks and other carvings from ebony and mpingo wood. Be prepared to bargain hard for everything. Masks are not typical of most East African groups, and the ones you find in the markets are either imported from West Africa or are strange things made just for tourists, with the exception of the Makonde masks.

Tinga Tinga paintings, named after the painter who originated that style, are for sale everywhere. Their distinctive style and colors make for attractive souvenirs. A standard size painting can be had for TS 5,000 - 10,000. There is a Tinga Tinga school in Dar es Salaam, where you can purchase paintings from the artists themselves.

Eat

Produce is often of very high quality. Meat and milk can prove difficult for western taste and diets, so be sure that all meat is cooked through. At hotels, you won't have any trouble, but if you venture into small villages, make sure that all water is filtered or boiled before drinking and all fruits and vegetables are peeled before eating.
Local dishes include Mtori - cooked beef and bananas - and Mchicha, a vegetable stew which meat or fish in it.
If there is anything that can be called Tanzania's national dish, then Ugali would most likely win out. A polenta-style dish made with corn flour, it accompanies cooked meat and a variety of stews, and it's eaten with your hands. Recipes vary from village to village, and everyone has their own way of making it. Many foreigners find it bland and unappealing, but it's worth a try, and some upscale establishments serve it.
Chai Maziwa (chai with milk) is a local favorite and well worth trying if you can handle the large amounts of sugar added to this drink.
Street food is also cheap and plentiful. Barbecued maize on the cob is very nice, as are the chipped potatoes (fries), cooked over a roaring fire.
Mandazi is a sweet doughnut-styled food that is mostly made fresh each morning. Great with coffee in the morning, it makes an ideal snack.
Tanzania's large South Asian community ensures that a great variety of restaurants offer cuisine from all parts of that region of the globe. All eateries near Hindu temples (particularly in Dar) are a good bet. Just watch where the local Indians go to eat, and you won't be disappointed. Most of the food is cooked in large amounts of Ghee, clarified butter, which can be hard for some people to digest.
Chips Mayai (chips cooked in an omelet) are served at nearly every African food stand in Tanzania and are considered a Tanzanian specialty. They're quite good with pili pili (hot sauce).
Northern Tanzania boasts a number of great coffee plantations. Although coffee does not have the same popularity in Tanzania as it has in Ethiopia, with a bit of searching you can find a decent cup of java, instead of the instant "Africa" coffee that is served in most restaurants. All large hotels in Dar make good coffee. If you want to brew your own cup, Msumbi Coffee Shop, +255 22 260 0380, Sea Cliff Village, sells Tanzanian coffee beans ground or whole, roasted on the premises.

Drink

Bottled water is cheap and widely available throughout the country. You shouldn't drink the tap water unless you have no other option, and it must either be filtered with a high quality filter and purifier or kept at a rolling boiled for at east 10 minutes before consumption. Recent tests on tap water have found it contaminated with the e-coli bacteria.
Konyagi is a wonderful gin-like beverage, sold only in Tanzania.
Domestic beers are Kilimanjaro, Serengeti and Safari, which are western-style and very good. Imports include Tusker, Stella Artois, and Castle.
Locally produced banana-beer is also available at times, but questionably safe to drink. Traditionally, you will drink this out of a hollowed gourd. First drink the guests, who then pass it to the elders. In some parts of of Tanzania, fermented bamboo juice (Pombe) is the common tipple.
Passion fruit, mango, and orange juices are available in many restaurants, and excellent when the fruits are in season.
Soft drinks are widely available; Stoney Tangawizi (ginger ale - tangawizi means 'ginger', in Swahili) is one of the most popular.
Other popular beverages are Orange Fanta, Bitter Lemon, Soda Water, Tonic Water, and Lassi (a sweet or salty yogurt drink).

Sleep

Sunrise and sunset are always the same time (about 7) at the equator.

Be sure to avoid touts. If you are travelling as a couple, a good idea is for one person to sit in a lobby or restaurant with the bags, while the other scopes out rooms. You are likely to get a cheaper price without the bags, and not be targetted by sneaky touts that will raise the price $5-$10 for you for their commision.

Learn

Various schools and volunteer programs offer courses ranging from Beginners Swahili to Economic Development. Dar es Salaam also has a well-established University, which has exchange programs with several universities in the US and other countries.

Work

There is a wide assortment of volunteer organisations sending volunteers and interns to Tanzania to do work in health care, orphanages, education, and development projects. Finding a paying job may be more of a daunting task, taking more time and making use of local connections, but a job could be certainly obtainable when sought hard enough.

Stay safe

Theft

By African standards, Tanzania remains a relatively safe destination. However, like in many impoverished countries, caution should always be exercised in tourist areas, such as Arusha, Stone Town (Zanzibar), and Dar es Salaam. Violent crime against foreigners is very uncommon, but pickpocketing and con artists are not. Pickpockets work crowded markets, like Kariakoo, and bus stations. Don't be fooled by small children who are often forced into a life of crime by older kids or parents -- never carry anything of value in your pockets and don't let expensive camera equipment dangle from your neck.

Robberies

Robberies against travelers are uncommon. However, certain relatively well-known areas are dangerous, such as the beaches in Dar Es Salaam (robberies, even in daytime) and the Kariakoo market in Dar (pickpockets). See specific area articles for details.

In general, avoid isolated areas, especially after dark. Travelling in large groups is safer. If there are many people or security guards around (e.g. city center areas) you should be relatively safe.

The safest way to travel is by taxi with a driver you know, especially when it's dark out (late night or early morning). Although it's uncommon, taxi drivers have been known to rob tourists. Get the number for a taxi you trust, from your hotel or a local.

Buses have infrequently been stopped by robbers on long-distance (often overnight) routes. If you have to travel a long distance by bus, it might be better to break it into multiple day-only trips, or to travel by plane or train.

In the event of an incident, the police may or may not make a strong effort to identify the culprits, but obtaining a police report is necessary if you plan on filing an insurance claim later, or if important documents are stolen. Make sure the police report indicates if your papers were stolen; otherwise you may have difficulty leaving the country. You should immediatly contact your local embassy or consulate in the event that your passport is taken.

Walking

There are very few sidewalks in Tanzania, always pay careful attention to the traffic and be prepared to move out of the way, as vehicles do not make much effort to avoid pedestrians. In Tanzania, cars have priority.

The best way to avoid touts, sellers, dealers etc, when they inevitably come up to you and say "jambo" is to either say nothing, or to say "thank you" or "asante", and to keep moving. Some may be offended by 'no', and persistent touts will be encouraged by any kind of interaction at all.

Corruption

Tanzania, like many developing countries, suffers from corruption. Police are poorly paid - many make less than $40/month. You may be solicited for a bribe by an official willing to turn a blind eye to your infraction, fabricated or otherwise. Some travellers are very much averse to paying bribes to anyone, especially in a country with so many needy but honest citizens. Others are willing to part with a some money in return for quickly getting on with other things. It might be helpful to decide where you stand on the matter before being confronted with it.

Fraudsters are known to impersonate police, sometimes in the guise of an "immigration official" who identifies a problem with your documents. They will flash official-looking papers at you. But there are many plainclothes officers as well. And if you are confronted with someone in uniform, they are almost certainly an actual officer.

On-the-spot-fine is one term used for a bribe. Those words are meant to initiate a conversation about money. You may be told that the real fine is TSh40,000 or more and that for TSh20,000 or 30,000, paid immediately, you can be on your way and avoid a trip to the Police Station to pay a higher fine.

If you are certain you are in the right, and do not want to pay a bribe, some strategies are:

Involve other people. Fraudsters or corrupt officials are unlikely to pursue their schemes near an audience. You can ask bystanders for help on the pretext of not understanding the officer.

Invoke higher powers. Insisting on going to the local police station is a good way to make an illegitimate issue go away. Suggesting a visit to your country's embassy (e.g. to have an official there help translate the conversation, due to one's poor knowledge of the local language and laws) is also effective. At this point, they usually have a look of horror on their face, since they don't want any real officials involved. Asking for bribes is illegal, and there is an office of corruption where they can be reported.

Play dumb. Politely explain to the person that you don't understand the nature of the infraction, even if you do. Tanzanians are not direct, and prefer to imply what they want, instead of asking outright. Tell them you've only just arrived in the country, even if it's your 100th visit. If you know some Kiswahili, I wouldn't mention it. It may only make things harder.

Insist a receipt with an official stamp -- a request that is most likely to be met with confusion and concern. The idea is to show that you don’t know that this is actually a bribe and that you simply try to play by the rules. Hopefully, after 10 or 20 minutes of a circular, but always polite, conversation, they may send you on your merry way.

Also keep in mind that:

Discussing money or negotiating the fine may encourage the perception that you understand the nature of the conversation (i.e. you are willing to pay a bribe).

Directly accusing the officer of corruption is likely to be counter-productive; it is important that you allow the officer to save face.

If you insist on going to the police station, you may be expected to give the officer a ride. If you are alone, and especially if the "officer" is plainclothes, this may not be a good idea. If you are approached by multiple people and are alone, under no circumstances get in their vehicle - insist on taking a taxi. And once you get to the station, just pay whatever fine is quoted and insist on a receipt. This may end up costing you more than the bribe, but at least this cop won't get any money out of you, and he/she may think twice before flagging down other foreigners. Also, demonstrate respect for their authority, never raise your voice, and never swear or insult them. Whether you are right or not, does not matter at that point.

Finally: Police, like civilians, sometimes drink excessively, even while on duty. Incidents of excessive force involving tourists are rare, but that doesn’t mean it cannot happen. As in any situation where someone is trying to part you from your money by force or threat of force, it's better to be safe than sorry; it's only money.

Stay healthy

Illnesses and diseases

As in most African countries, the AIDS/HIV infection rate is high. Tanzania's HIV/AIDS infection rate was 9% at the end of 2003 UNAIDS [21]. This figure is deceiving, however, since several distinct segments of the population, such as artisanal miners, itinerant fisherman, truck drivers, and sex workers, have HIV infection rates significantly higher than the national average. Do not have unprotected sex in Tanzania or anywhere else, for that matter.

After food-borne illnesses, malaria should be your greatest concern. Malaria is transmitted by mosquitoes and is endemic to Tanzania. You may find yourself at risk in almost every part of the country, although this risk is diminished at altitudes above 2000 m. Care should always be taken between sunset and sunrise, especially during the rainy season. Always sleep under a treated net; wear trousers and closed footwear, and use an effective repellent. It's amazing, but many large hotels don’t automatically install mosquito nets in their rooms. However, a call to the reception requesting one is seldom ignored. In some cases, the nets have several large holes, but a bit of adhesive tape or tying a small knot to cover the hole should do the trick.

Prior to leaving for Tanzania, you may also wish to consult a physician about taking some anti-malarial medication -- before, during, and after your trip. If, in spite of your best efforts, you do contract malaria, it is usually easily treated with medication that is readily available throughout most of the country. If you plan on being in isolated locations, you may wish to drop by a clinic and purchase a batch. Note that symptoms associated with malaria can take up to two weeks before manifesting themselves. The rule of thumb for ex-pats living in Tanzania is this: Any fever lasting more than a day should be cause for concern and necessitate a trip to the clinic for a malaria test. Upon your return home, should you show signs of a possible malaria infection, notify your doctor that you’ve visited a malaria-infected country.

Other major illnesses to avoid are typhoid and cholera. In theory, typhoid can be avoided by carefully selecting food and drink and by avoiding consumption of anything unclean. Typhoid infection, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) [22], is marked by 'persistent, high fevers...headache, malaise, anorexia, splenomegaly, and relative bradycardia.'

Cholera infection is marked by vomiting and sudden, uncontrollable bowel movements, which can dehydrate and ultimately kill the sufferer within 48 hours. It is important to seek medical attention as quickly as possible. Cholera is more or less a seasonal phenomenon in Zanzibar, where outbreaks frequently occur during the rainy seasons. Vaccines and/or oral prevention are available for both typhoid and cholera.

Yellow fever is an acute viral disease transmitted through the bite of a particular mosquito. Although not as common as malaria, it is nonetheless a serious disease, and travelers to Africa should consult a physician about being vaccinated against it. If you plan on traveling to other countries after your stay in Tanzania, be advised that some countries, such as South Africa, may require proof that you’ve been vaccinated against Yellow Fever before allowing you to enter the country. If you aren’t or can’t prove it, you will be offered two options: 1) receive the Yellow Fever vaccination at the airport, and 2) immediately leave the country. WARNING: The Yellow Fever vaccine can have serious side affects for some people. Therefore, you may wish to get the vaccine in your home country, under controlled conditions. Most physicians will not administer the Yellow Fever vaccine to children under the age of 1 year, and a letter from a physician explaining this will ensure that your infant child will not receive the vaccine at the airport. NOTE:- People travelling to Tanzania from INDIA, There is acute shortage of the yellow fever vaccine in India so please get yourself vaccinated at the airport in Dar-ES-Salaam as soon as you land there.

Gastrointestinal Distress, a.k.a. traveler’s diarrhea, is the result of one, some, or all the following factors: Unhygienic food preparation and storage, changes in diet, fatigue, dehydration, and excessive alcohol consumption. Prevention is your best defense. Eat only raw vegetables and fruits you can peel and which have been rinsed in clean water. Avoid street or restaurant food that appears to have been left in the open for an extended period of time. Eat only freshly fried or steamed food. You should drink only bottled water, which is available throughout the country. You should even brush your teeth with it. If you must drink tap or well water, boil it for a minimum of 10 minutes or use a high quality filter.

Rift Valley Fever: [23] In January 2007, there was an outbreak of RFV in the Kilimanjaro area. Consumption of unpasteurized milk and improperly cooked meat from infected cows led to a number of deaths in the area. Following the deaths, beef sales dropped sharply all over the country, despite the limited scope of the infection. In general, meat served in upscale restaurants is of superior quality. However, care should be taken when indulging in street foods or when eating in remote areas.

Insects and Animals

Tanzania has its fair share of venomous and deadly insects and animals, such as Black and Green Mambas, scorpions, spiders, stinging ants, lions, sharks, and others. You should take care when walking through high grass; when visiting national parks, or when shoving your hand under rocks or into dark holes -- unless you know what you are doing. In actuality, the likelihood of encountering these and other similar dangers is remote.

The insect/animal most residents fear is the mosquito.

Medical Facilities

Hospitals and dispensaries in Tanzania do not meet western standards. If you require surgery or any complex medical procedure you will have to be evacuated to Kenya, South Africa or Europe. You should ensure your medical insurance covers such expenses. Outside of Dar es Salaam, and especially outside of the larger cities and towns, you will be hard pressed to get even basic medical help as many doctors are poorly trained and/or have limited equipment and medication. You should ensure you have your own medical kit to hold you over in case of an emergency. Misdiagnoses are frequent for even common ailments such as malaria, as high as 70% of the cases.

Dar es Salaam is served by a few clinics staffed by western trained physicians. However, procedures such as surgery still require evacuation out of Tanzania.

IST Medical Clinic: Just off Haile Selassie Road past the Chole Road intersection, behind the International School of Tanganyika, Msasani Pinensula, Tel: +255 22 260 1307, Emergency: +255 754 783 393.
Premier Care Clinic Limited: 259 Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Namanga, Kinondoni, P.O. Box 220, Dar es Salaam, Tel: +255 22 266 8385, Mobile: +255 748 254 642.
Aga Khan Hospital: Corner of Ocean Road & Sea View Road, Tel: +255 22 211 5151.

Government Hospitals

Bugando Hospital, Mwanza, Tanzania Tel: +255 68 40610, [24]. The University College of Health Sciences at Bugando Medical Center is established as a Catholic college having four schools: Medical, Nursing, Pharmacotherapy and Dental.

Mbeya Referral Hospital, PO Box 419, Mbeya, Tanzania Tel: +255 65 3576. Mnazi Mmoja Hospital, PO Box 338, Zanzibar, Tanzania Tel: +255 54 31071.

Other Government run hospitals used for electives:

Hindu Mandal Hospital, PO Box 581, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Tel: +255 51 110237/110428. Agha Khan Hospital, PO Box 2289, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Tel: +255 51 114096. Nachingwea District General Hospital, Nachingwea, Lindi, South Tanzania Teule District Designated Hospital, Muheza, Tanga Region, Tanzania.

Mission Hospitals

Berega Mission Hospital, Berega, Morogoro, Tanzania. St Anne’s Hospital, PO Box 2, Liuli (via Songea), Tanzania (connected via USPG charity). St Francis Hospital, Kwo Mkono, Handeni District, Tanzania.

A flying doctor service is based in Arusha, Tel: +255 2548578.

For any medical issues please don't hesitate to contact: Ministry of Health, PO Box 9083, Dar es Salaam Tel: +255 51 20261 Fax: 51 39951

Respect

In general, tourists should wear modest or conservative attire, especially in Zanzibar, which is a conservative Muslim society. Western women should not wear clothing that reveals too much skin. 'Kangas', brightly-colored wrap-around cloth, are affordable, available throughout the country, and can serve as a discreet covering.

The Masai people, with their colorful clothing, are tempting targets for any tourist with a camera. However, they expect to be paid for it, and you should always ask before taking pictures.

It is common practice among Swahili-speakers to use 'shikamoo' (prounounced 'she ka moe' and literally meaning, 'I hold your feet') when greeting elders or superiors. The usual response from an elder will be 'marahaba'. In Zanzibar, the equivalent of 'shikamoo' is 'chei chei'. The traveler will get along very well when using these verbal expressions of respect. In addition, a title after the 'shikamoo' is also a useful indicator that you are not just a dumb tourist -- 'shikamoo bwana' for the gents, and, when addressing a female elder, 'shikamoo mama'.

Don't forget to visit the Swami Narayan Temple in Dar-Es-Salaam. The address and contact details are mentioned below : - Shri Swaminarayan Mandir (BAPS) P.O. Box 528 Dar-es-Salam, Phone: (255-51) 116394 Fax: (255-51) 11587

Tanzanians will also comment if you are doing any work while they are not, with the phrase "pole na kazi". It literally means "I'm sorry you have to work". A simple "asante", or "thanks", will suffice in reply.

Many Tanzanian sellers are persistent and, ordinarily, a simple head shake, accompanied by "asante sana", should settle it. However, as a last resort, a firm "hapana", meaning "no", will do the trick. Tanzanians find the word "hapana" quite rude, so please don't use it casually -- only as a last resort. Whatever you plan to do, do not tell someone you will come back to buy from them later when you have no such intention; better to be honest and say 'no' than having to avoid someone for days. They somehow have a funny way of finding you when you promised to visit their stall or shop!

The most polite way to refuse something is to say "sihitaji" (pronounced see-hih-tah-jee)- "I don't need it".

Contact

Keeping in touch while traveling in Tanzania is rarely a problem. You can get decent mobile phone reception even in some national parks.

Telephone calls

The "Tanzania Telecommunications Company Ltd" (TTCL) is the state owned telecom, operating all pay phones and landlines in Tanzania. As it is the case with most developing countries, telephone fixed-lines are not affordable for many ordinary people. However, the mobile network has blossomed throughout Africa in the past five years, and this is equally true of Tanzania. With many used mobile phones for sale and the very low cost of getting a SIM card, 2000 Tsh, this is the popular choice of most Tanzanians. For many, a mobile phone is the first large purchase when they get a job. The major mobile service providers operate all over the country, even in some of the most remote areas, although service interruptions are common.

Note: If you find a taxi driver or tour guide that you like, ask for his/her mobile number. This is often the best way to reach them.

Using a mobile phone If you have an "unlocked" Quadband GSM mobile phone, you can purchase a local SIM card for 500 Tsh from a series of Tanzanian service providers. The most popular are Celtel [25], Vodacom [26], and Tigo [27]. Zantel [28] is a new arrival on the mainland, but its service is limited to Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam, and Arusha.

Air TimeYou can recharge your "Prepaid" mobile phone account by using "scratch-cards", which are available everywhere. Just look for shops or even small tables set up along the road, with posters for the various mobile service providers. Those cards come in the following denominations: 500, 1000, 5000, 10000, 20000, and 50000 Tsh. If you plan on making frequent calls outside of Africa, you will need at least a 10000 Tsh-card.

Making calls within Tanzania to a mobile phone: Dial "0 & (telephone number)" or "+255 & (telephone number)"
Making calls within Tanzania to a landline: Dial "0 & (city code) & (telephone number)" or "+255 & (city code) & (telephone number)"

Telephone codes for the Tanzanian cities (These numbers are only used when calling landlines)

Dar es Salaam (22), Morogoro & Mtwara (23), Zanzibar & Pemba (24), Mbeya (25), Iringa (26), Arusha & Tanga (27), and Mwanza (28).

Making international calls: Dial "+ & (country code) & (area code, if any) & (telephone number)"

Note: In October 2006, Vodacom changed the second digit, not counting the first "0" or the "+255" country code, in their phone numbers from "4" to "5", e.g.: 744 is now 754. Many magazines, books, travel guides, and advertisements may not have made the necessary corrections. All Vodacom mobile numbers starting with 744, 745, or 746 should be changed to 754, 755, and 756.

Internet

Internet cafés are more and more common throughout Tanzania. They are easy to find in major urban areas, like Dar es Salaam and Arusha.

Unlike South Africa and Northern Africa, East African countries do not have a high capacity undersea cable, which provides reliable and affordable telecommunications services. Currently, all telecommunications are routed through satellite links, which are few, costly, and unreliable when weather turns bad.

Some mobile providers have started offering wireless internet service. Zantel, Vodacom, and Celtel are the main providers. At the time of this writing, service is limited to Dar es Salaam, Arusha, and Zanzibar.

To use this service, you must first purchase a CDMA PC Card or USB mobile receiver which plugs into your computer. This will set you back about 200000 Tsh. If you have an unlocked CDMA phone with a modem cable, that will also work.

Airtime is obtained using scratch cards just like mobile phones. Connection rates are about 60 Tsh for 1 Mb or US$0.05 per MB. So 1 GB of download and upload will set you back US$50. Not cheap.

Emergency

Emergency Services: 112

Note: In 2006, there was a huge scandal involving the emergency service number, a scandal that saw the resignation of the Chief of Police. During an armed robbery at a popular Indian restaurant, an employee dialed 112 to notify the police that a crime was in progress. He let the phone ring for over 30 minutes before hanging up. The following day, the media reported that the emergency number had been disconnected for over a month, and the police had not advised the public.

Luckily, the emergency number has been reactivated; however, if you can, it's probably better to go straight to the nearest police station, instead of dialing 112.

Get Out

Air Freight

If you happen to buy too many goodies during your travels, it is possible to send them home air freight. Many airlines will allow you to check additional parcels when you fly, for a fee, which probably makes the most sense if you're going straight home. But if you're continuing on, air freight might be the way to go. Note that many listed rates do not include 20% VAT, or a "fuel surcharge", 13.5% as of December 2008.

DHL, [29]. Offers quite pricey service (e.g. about $300 for a 10kg package to the US) but is conveniently located in Dar city center, as well as in a bunch of other cities (see web site). Will deliver direct to the recipient in most countries.

KLM, (go to the old terminal at DAR airport), [30]. Offers slightly more reasonable rates than DHL (e.g. about $100 for a 10kg package to the US) but requires a trip to the airport and about 1 hour of paperwork & waiting. You must pay cash, in US dollars, plus some fees in shillings. Customs will want to go through the package, so bring something to (re)seal it. You can first go to the KLM freight office (look for the sign), then to the cargo building further down the same road, or call ahead and be met at cargo. If you just arrive at cargo you will be swarmed by freight forwarders - to find the KLM staff, look for the KLM logo (e.g. on a lanyard) or call ahead to Sameer (+255.714.474.617) who is quite helpful. Note that, despite what you might be told, someone will need to go to the destination airport to pick up the package - it will not be delivered to an address by KLM. Storage charges will accrue if it's left for very long.

EMS. EMS is a branch of the Tanzanian postal service, and is the cheapest way to send packages. It's available at most larger town post offices. But shipping time can be quite long, and delivery is not always reliable. Also there are size/weight restrictions. Packages will be transferred to the local postal service at destination, which usually provides direct delivery.

SãO TOMÉ E PRÍNCIPE

2009-05-28T06:42:00.000-07:00

Overview

The little-discovered islands of Sao Tomé e Príncipe provide unspoiled beauty and isolation from the world now rarely found anywhere else. The islands lie on an alignment of once-active volcanoes, with rugged landscapes, dense forests and palm-fringed beaches, 250km (155 miles) off the coast of West Africa. Exotic birds inhabit tropical jungles on islands that form Africa's smallest country.

The picturesque town of Sao Tomé lies exactly on the equator, with colonial Portuguese architecture and attractive parks.

The history of the islands is dominated by the slave trade and slave-worked plantations. The islands form one of the smallest countries in Africa.

Sao Tomé and Príncipe (often called just "Sao Tomé" for short) is a small island nation off the Atlantic coast of Central Africa, located in the Gulf of Guinea, straddling the Equator, west of Gabon. Discovered and claimed by Portugal in the late 15th century, the islands' sugar-based economy gave way to coffee and cocoa in the 19th century -- all grown with plantation slave labor, a form of which lingered into the 20th century. Although independence was achieved in 1975, democratic reforms were not instituted until the late 1980s, and the first free elections were held in 1991.

Regions

Sao Tomé Island (Ilha de Sao Tomé) - the larger island (and surrounding islets)
Príncipe Island (Ilha do Príncipe) - the smaller island (and surrounding islets)

Cities

Sao Tomé - Capital

Understand

This small poor island economy has become increasingly dependent on cocoa since independence 34 years ago. However, cocoa production has substantially declined because of drought and mismanagement. The resulting shortage of cocoa for export has created a persistent balance-of-payments problem. Sao Tomé has to import all fuels, most manufactured goods, consumer goods, and a substantial amount of food. Over the years, it has been unable to service its foreign debt and has had to depend on concessional aid and debt rescheduling. Sao Tomé benefited from $200 million in debt relief in December 2000 under the Highly Indebted Poor Countries (HIPC) program. Sao Tomé's success in implementing structural reforms has been rewarded by international donors, who have pledged increased assistance in 2001. Considerable potential exists for development of a tourist industry, and the government has taken steps to expand facilities in recent years. The government also has attempted to reduce price controls and subsidies. Sao Tomé is also optimistic that substantial petroleum discoveries are forthcoming in its territorial waters in the oil-rich waters of the Gulf of Guinea. Corruption scandals continue to weaken the economy.

Get in

Visas

Visas are NOT issued on arrival. Visitors must have a visa prior to arrival along with proof of yellow fever vaccination. In the US, there is no embassy but visas may be obtained from the STP Mission to the UN in New York: 400 Park Ave., 7th Floor, (212) 317-0533. In Europe, a STP visa may be obtained in Brussels: Square Montgomery, 175 Avenue de Tervuren, +32 2 734 89 66. There is no STP diplomatic mission in Oceania. For travellers arriving from mainland Africa, there is a STP diplomatic mission in Gabon: B.P. 49, Libreville, (241) 72-15-27.

There are few embassies in STP. The embassies dully accredited to STP are: Librevill, Gabon (USA); Luanda, Angola (UK); Yaoundé, Cameroon (Canada); & Abuja, Nigeria (Australia). The nearest New Zealand embassy is in Namibia.

By plane

There are two weekly flight with the Portuguese airline TAP [1] from Lisbon to Sao Tomé, on Fridays and Saturdays. This stretch is flown by Air Luxor [2]. On Sundays TAAG Angola Airlines flies to Sao Tomé from Luanda. TAAG also serves Sao Tomé from Cape Verde. Aerocontractors flies from Lagos,Nigeria Saturdays to Sao Tome.

Talk

The official language is Portuguese, and due to the comparative lack of English-speaking tourists, the visitor should assume that it will be necessary.

Buy

Sao Tomé and Príncipe uses the Dobra, which is a restricted currency (the import and export of local currency is prohibited). The import of foreign currency is unlimited subject to declaration, and you may export only up to the amount you import. Travelers' cheques are generally not recommended. Euros, and sometimes dollars, are commonly accepted at larger restaurants and shops.

Eat

Fish is a staple of the Sao Toméan diet, often served with breadfruit and mashed, cooked bananas. The variety of fish is wide, including flying fish at certain times of year. Inland, many Sao Toméans get their protein from buzios, large land snails. Sea snails are also quite common along the coast. In spite of the abject poverty, Sao Toméans can always count on some sustenance from the wide array of tropical fruits. The hotels in the capital offer European-style fare at European prices.

Café e Companhia. The expat hangout in Sao Tome. This is THE place to let people know you have arrived in country. Café and Companhia is popularly known as “MJs”, after the owner and former manager Maria Joao. MJ leases the business to a new German manager but makes appearances when she is in country. C & C is known for Thursday night jazz and the “Atomic Penis”.

Sum Secreto. Standard grill fare, but they can handle large groups without a reservatino. Service is generally very good, and the meat and fish are excellent. Nothing fancy, but the place is popular because it has that secret something.

Bigodes. Located near the airport, if you decide to wait for your flight here the airport will call to let you know when your flight is boarding. Good lunches and great view.

O Pirata. Located next to the Pestana Hotel, it is one of the few places open on Sunday morning, but one suspects they just party through Saturday night. Good place to nurse a cup of coffee and an omelet and just watch the ocean. A sunken ship is right off the restaurant…hence the name “The Pirate”.

Roça Sao Joao dos Angolares. Make reservations as far in advance as possible, but it is worth it. Gourmet meals served as a multiple course prix fixe are worth the extra workout you will need.

Drink

Beer is readily available everywhere, though Sao Toméans are not known as big drinkers. Local brands include Creolla and Rosema. Inland, palm wine is available very inexpensively from vendors along the road. Palm wine is best consumed in the morning. In the capital, whiskey and other spirits are popular among the elites. Wine, especially Portuguese vinho verde, is popular wiht fish dishes.

Sleep

A small handful of hotels exist in the capital. Near the town of Santana lies an idyllic bed and breakfast with stunning views. Opulent resorts have been built at the very northern and southern extremes of the country, on the small island of Ilheu das Rolas, and at Ilha Bom Bom off the coast of Principe.

In the main city of Sao Tome can be found several small pousadas (B&Bs). There are three main hotels in the city.

Pestana. The brand new Pestana Hotel is advertised as the only five-star hotel in the capital, and could comfortably be described as a high four-star. The hotel is owned by the Pestana hotel chain from Lisbon. Most rooms have a great view of the ocean, and a full breakfast is included. Good restaurant, great bar, a decent gym and two infinity pools.

http://www.pestana.com/hotels/en/hotels/africa/SaoTomePrincipeHotels/SaoTome/Home/PestanaSaoTome.htm

Agosto Neto. This hotel could be described as either a large B&B or a small boutique hotel. This quiet hotel is located on a side street a couple of blocks from the Presidential Palace. The hotel is relatively new, spotlessly clean, and will open the kitchen upon request. Full breakfast is included. Internet access in the lobby, and the desk TRIES to speak English.

http://www.hotelagostoneto.com/

Miramar. The grand dame of Sao Tome hotels, this place has seen better days. In its heyday you could sit in the lobby and anyone that was important would walk past. The hotel has open wi-fi, so lots of local people still come by. A bit overpriced for what you get. The neighboring Pestana Hotel bought out the elderly German owner last year and is rumored to be converting the Miramar to a conference center.

http://www.sao-tome.com/e_miramar.html

See

The Obo national park [3] is a national reserve in the south-west part of the country. Local guides offer trips with bird-watching, observation of marine turtle nesting and ascension of Monte Pico.

Fort Sao Sebastiao. The fort was built in 1575 and is now the Sao Tomé National Museum. The US Government donated money and services to refurbish the fort back in 2006, and now for a small fee anyone can be escorted around the Fort by a trained guide. The Fort has a working lighthouse and consecrated chapel, and is absolutely beautiful at night. The Fort is flanked by statues of three famous Portuguese explorers that nobody seems to remember.

Boca do Inferno Blowhole. A blowhole is a cavity formed in the ground at the inland end of a sea cave. When waves enter the mouth of the cave they will be funneled up towards the blowhole, which can become quite spectacular if the geometry and state of the weather is appropriate. The Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell) blowhole is spectacular at any time of the day but especially dramatic at high tide and during a full moon. Go with a good camera for dramatic shots. Just go past the VOA and coffee plantation, and take a left at the second basket stall.

Cascada Sao Nicolau. Drive up to Trindad and pass Café Monte. Bear left and keep going until the road washes out. In the middle of the jungle is a 100 foot high spring-fed waterfall named after Saint Nicolas. Absolutely beautiful and romantic. Pay no attention to the young couples lingering…

Roças. Café Monte in Trindad and Sao Joao dos Angolares are two well known and easily accessible roças. Café Monte has a new coffee museum set to open, and since it is in the mountains is cool and inviting. Sao Joao dos Angolares is run by a local art shop owner; the food served in the excellent restaurant is grown on the premises. Art and knicknacks are available for sale.

City market. Ah, to experience public life in Sao Tome. See, hear and…smell quotidian life. Just look for the yellow taxis in front of the recently-built City Market to experience the average Saotomense shopping experience. The taxi cabs are a experience in themselves, and are so numerous they have been photographed from space.

National Cathedral. Sao Tome has lots of churches, all of which are worth visiting. However, the National Cathedral adjacent to the Presidential Palace is the largest in the country and is beautiful and peaceful inside. It also has a sign as you enter: “You don’t need a cell phone to talk to God here. Please turn it off.”

Do

The waters around Sao Tome are clear and rich with life. Consequently, diving, fishing and boat tours provide much to see. One of the few operators that offers these activities is Club Maxel [4].

Walk Around. Traffic is light, the sea breeze is cooling, and you can admire the architecture and people. The capitol city of Sao Tome is replete with public art. Painting and carvings by local artists, in addition to old Portuguse statues, can be found throughout the city. Often times you will walk down the street and turna corner come up suddenly against a colorful and sprightly paintng right in front of you.

Shopping is limited, but there are a few things worth purchasing, and possibly of export quality:

Claudio Corallo Chocolate. Tours of his chocolate factory are give on request. He or one of his sons will gleefully describes the shocking inferior stuff that passes for chocolate around the world. Claudio maintains complete control of the chocolate making process, from growing the pods on his own plantation on Principe through to packaging the chocolate in his own vacuum-sealed clean rooms. He gives copious free samples during the demonstration, and sells all his products right there in the demonstration room. Expensive but worth it.

Coffee. Sao Tome was famous for its coffee. The quality suffered a bit after the newly-independent Sao Tome government broke up the old rocas into sharecropper lots, but given the quality of the volcanic soil the coffee was still great. There has been a recent surge in interest in Sao Tome coffee, mostly due to Claudio Corrallo’s work, but you can walk into any shop in Sao Tome and get great coffee cheap.

Rum. Sao Tome has two rum factories within an easy trip: Gravana, which is sold out of a car repair shop next to the Central Market, and Me-Zochi which is in Trindad behind the church. Prices of a one liter bottle of rum vary from USD 3 – 7 depending on the price of sugar. Gravana rum is dark and sweet, and is best served over ice and savored like a scotch. Me-Zochi rum is also good, but the factory also sells different types of liqueurs made from local fruits. Most of their product is shipped to Europe.

Baskets. Baskets are part and parcel of everyday life in Sao Tome. Therefore they are plentiful and cheap. They are not fancy but have their charm.

Miscellaneous Tourist Stuff. Ossobbo is across from the Fort Sao Sebastiao. The shop features local artisans and products of Sao Tome, from coffee, chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla to carvings, t-shirts and thumb drives. Prices are reasonable, but the best part is the shop is run by the non-profit Sisters of Misericordia; all profits go to the craftsmen or charitable works.

Stay safe

Safety is not an issue in Sao Tomé and Príncipe, though the roadway traffic is hazardous as in other parts of Africa. Violent crime in public is almost unheard of. However, with an increase in tourism there has been an increase in crime against tourists. Road blocks near Santana have been reported, as well as scams targetting tourists in the main city.

Stay healthy

Malaria is extremely common and sometimes lethal, making malaria prophelaxis, bed netting, and mosquito repellent essential for the traveller. Water must be boiled before drinking, or purchased and consumed from bottles.